This recipe is a sort of faux turnip kimchee, and uses gochujang to bring deep flavor and heat to a simple quickle, which is great all on its own. Using the gochujang really transforms the dish in an almost Cinderella fashion. What is gochujang? You could almost call it the ketchup of Korea- a funky, sweet, salty, nutty paste of fermented soybeans (kind of like miso, but not…) and peppers. The heat can vary, but it will be there. Anything from mild to fairly spicy, it is pasty and thick, and is usually cut with something to thin it a little, and ginger and garlic are often added to up the umami already there. Try adding spoonsful to soups, stews, marinades, and rubs and see how great it is. Here, it simulates the flavor fermentation would bring to these quick pickles, and brings the heat.
INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch Tokyo turnips, trimmed of greens and rootlet*
3-4 scallions, whites and greens separated, sliced on a 2-inch by 1/8th inch diagonal
2 tablespoons kosher salt, or as needed
½ cup granulated sugar
1 cup rice vinegar
2-4 tablespoons gochujang**
–Options-
1 smallish clove of garlic, grated on a ginger grater or with a Microplane©
Juice from ½ inch peeled ginger, grated on a ginger grater or with a Microplane©, and squeezed into a ramekin
Cayenne powder to taste
METHOD:
Use a mandolin to slice the turnips into very thin slices. Place into a large non-reactive bowl and sprinkle with salt so all the slices have some on them. They do not have to be completely covered in salt, but should have a good dusting. Toss gently to spread the salt around. Set aside.
While the turnip slices are taking the salt bath, mix the sugar and rice together and whisk or shake vigorously in a jar until the sugar is no longer visible.
Check the turnip slices after 10 minutes. They should be pliable but not totally floppy. As soon as they will bend without breaking, and before they turn really soft, rinse the turnip slices in several changes of cold water until they no longer taste salty. Drain, pat dry, and transfer to the sugar/vinegar solution. Use your fingers to ensure all the slices are in contact with the quickling solution and not sticking to each other. Transfer to the refrigerator and allow to marinate at least 30 minutes.
When the turnip slices take on the taste of the quickling solution, put two tablespoons of the gochujang into a non-reactive bowl. Whisk in a little quickling juice to thin out the gochujang. Remove the turnips from the liquid, and eyeball the thinned out paste. Does it look to be enough paste to coat the turnip slices? Is it thin enough? Taste it for flavor, and decide if you want to add more paste, or add the garlic, ginger, or chili powder. Try dipping a turnip slice in and tasting it to get an idea of how you want to adjust the flavors. The paste should be thin enough to coat all of the turnip slices without dripping off, and should not be so thick it weighs down a turnip slice if picked up with chopsticks. If you wish to add any of the options, whisk them in. If you are using the chili powder, sprinkle the powder over the spread out gochujang, and add a little more of the quickling solution. Allow to sit for a couple minutes and then whisk in. Add more paste to achieve the right consistency.
When you have the flavor you want, add the scallions and mix in, or simply add just before eating if you want to keep the flavors pure and separate.
Store in the refrigerator until ready to eat, or consume immediately.
Chef’s Notes: *If you wish, you can use the tops with the quickles. Clean really well and dunk in boiling water, then into cold water to arrest the cooking. Chop the greens and add them to the pickling solution. When they pick up flavor, drain and squeeze dry. Make a larger batch of seasoned/thinned gochujang and dress the greens separate from the slices. Be thorough mixing the paste into the greens, and then combine the
two. **Gochujang, a.k.a. “fermented red pepper paste”, can be found in Asian markets, and in grocery stores now. Different varieties taste differently, so you may have to explore on your own. I can say that Annie Chung gochujang is not the best- a bit thin and light flavored. More sweet than hot or funky. Also, in researching the paste, it seems Wang and Assi get the universal nod as brands to avoid for being insipid or having off flavors. The one I have right now I like a lot, and is Jay One brand.
Serves: 4 as a condiment
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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