Posts by: Andrew Cohen
This is a simple recipe combining young mixed lettuces, some nuts, and the Basic Celeriac Salad. The dressing is the one made for the celeriac. This is one of those things that take only moments to throw together provided you have this stuff on hand. I like to wash and dry my lettuces when I get them, then store them in a box lined with towels in the refrigerator, so I have them ready to go at a moments notice. As long as they are well dried they will keep perfectly well for at least a week. Just be sure to cover them up and close the box tightly. The celeriac stores well once made also.
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This is a basic celery root salad I use for many things. I combine it with young lettuces, or with sharper greens such as rocket and pepper cress, and it is great with microgreens added in. It makes a nice accompaniment to roast chicken or a foil for firmer fish such as halibut, tuna, salmon, or swordfish. I also like it as part of a hearty “salad” made of grains like wheat berries tossed with mizuna, rocket, frisee, and nuts. This is one of those dishes where I prefer my Ben-Riner slicer (use the medium comb), but a food processor with a medium grater plate or a box grater (use the large holes) will work also.
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INGREDIENTS:
6 cups braising greens, washed and chopped or torn into 1 inch bits
½ pound oyster mushrooms, torn into strips
1 leek, white and some of pale green part, split and cut into 2 inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into 1/8th inch shreds
6 cups braising greens, washed and chopped or torn into 1 inch bits
½ pound oyster mushrooms, torn into strips
1 leek, white and some of pale green part, split and cut into 2 inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into 1/8th inch shreds
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I like the idea of using vegetables to make sauces. I feel it can make for a lighter dish with unusual flavor combinations, and it allows me to get another vegetable on the plate in some instances. I frequently make a carrot sauce using carrot juice which I reduce to a glaze, but I wanted something less sweet, and more directly “carroty”, and light. This is the result. This was used with grilled sturgeon that was dusted with curry powder, and served with a quenelle of mint yogurt.
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In classic French cuisine, a pave is a cube or squarish block of food resembling old French paving stones. This potato gratin uses little liquid and is cooked under weight so it is compact. This is a two day affair (for the best results, but could be hurried along. See Notes and Tips) and takes a little work, but tastes great and is a nice addition to a fancy meal. Once made, the second day work to get it on the table goes quickly.
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Okay, let me just get this out there right away. This dish started out as baby food for my first child. At the time, many of our friends wanted to come over and play with him, and stayed for dinner. At some point, I was too tired to make separate dishes for grown-ups, so I just served what I had made him (a trio of purees if I recall correctly), and it was a hit. So here it is, in its amended grown-up form.
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Here’s a riff on a salad I had at a friend’s restaurant. I use baby arugula in lieu of basil, but if you can find basil, use it by all means. I cook the beets longer than I usually would so they take on a texture similar to tomatoes, and you could use different colored beets just as you might use various tomato types, just remember to keep the red beets separate while prepping until the last moment as they will stain everything.
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INGREDIENTS:
2-3 medium to large Fennel bulbs, stalks removed and halved through the root with the width, 1 frond reserved if you wish
½ large brown onion, peeled and cut through the root
Vegetable stock or water as needed (Around 1 cup)
1 tablespoon sugar or honey
1 tablespoon butter, cut into pea sized bits
Salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon fresh thyme
Olive oil as needed
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INGREDIENTS:
3-4 medium potatoes such as Romanze or Desiree, sliced into 1/8th inch or ¼ inch slices (around 2 cups or more)
6 slices thick cut bacon, cut into 1 inch long pieces
1 medium brown or white onion, peeled and cut into medium dice
1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1 tablespoon minced thyme
1 teaspoon minced rosemary
Neutral flavored oil if needed
3 eggs
1½ cups half-and-half
Salt and pepper to taste
1 nine-inch pie crust (use your favorite recipe )
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I no longer remember where the name came from, but I think it has to do with the fact that the potato is cut into irregular bits, or “chips”. This method allows for some variation in how crispy the potatoes cook. Some will be chewy, or cracking, some meltingly tender, others will be crunchy. That is the joy of this dish. The Carolas are great for this with their nutty sweetness. Using your biggest sauté pan and a really large pot of boiling water are two keys to success with this recipe.
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Tagged with: potatoes
Although it says “creamy”, there is no dairy in this soup. The creamy texture comes from roasting the cauliflower and adding a potato to the soup. Roasting the cauliflower brings out its sweetness and mitigates the funk that wet cooked cruciferous vegetables can show. This easy to make soup is wonderful in that you can flavor it so many ways; curry powder, saffron and smoked paprika, thyme and marjoram, cumin and oregano.
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This is a great side dish, and is quite flexible regarding seasonings. With its naturally sweet profile, these squashes do well seasoned with sweet or savory flavors, or both. Curry, cinnamon, garlic, sage, ginger-all of these alone or in combination can work. You can even add some apple juice into the mix. This method takes more work than simply steaming and pureeing the squash, but I think it coaxes a lot more flavor out so I am willing to take the time. The sautéing caramelizes the squash and brings out the sweetness and nutty qualities, where a simple steaming or boiling may leave you with more of a “green” vegetable flavor.
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I love vinegary foods, and I love foods that are quick to make. This hits on both accounts, and keeps well in the refrigerator. The dish is colorful and brightly flavored, and is a riff on the shallot quickles developed for the Harvest Festival.
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Radicchio can have a very strong bitter flavor, and it does well with something to mitigate that bite. Here, salty sweet pancetta and balsamic vinegar team up to tame the bite. This goes well with roasts and stews.
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Tagged with: radicchio
I am not kidding when I call this recipe “Italian Style”. I got it while standing in line at the Aptos Farmers Market from two elderly Italian women. Their conversation was a pastiche of both English and Italian, and finally I just asked them for the recipe because it sounded so good. They were happy to share it with a “nice young boy”… The recipe is about balance of flavors, and the quantities are approximate. The onion is the bass-line, the peppers are the high notes. The sweetness of both links them in the middle and the raisins and pine nuts round out the flavors. I use this as a dish on it’s own, and use it as a part or base for many other dishes. Mix in other things to make it a main dish, or use it on pizza or in pasta.
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This is not so much a recipe as it is a technique. Use just enough oil to lightly coat the peppers. Some recipes tell you to put the peppers into a plastic bag, but I am not sold on that idea, so I use a steel bowl and a pot lid, or find a plate or other bowl to fit. These peppers, once roasted, store well in the refrigerator for 4-5 days, or freeze beautifully for months. Use these as is for garnishing things, or use them as a base for other dishes. I have cooked these over an open gas burner (can be messy!), under the broiler, even in the sink with a propane torch, but my favorite way is on a grill.
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1 pound Kabocha squash, seeded
2 cups dashi* or water
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon of sugar (or less, to taste. This will be based on how sweet the squash is and how sweet you like this dish.)
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There are many versions of this salad, but the universal constant seems to be old bread and tomatoes and onions. I figure this salad grew out of the “cucina povera” canon, where waste, want not was the theme. Before Columbus, tomatoes were not part of this dish, but they certainly are now. This is a great way to use up older bread, but if you can’t wait, just rip up the bread early in the day and let it sit out a few hours, or throw it in the oven on low. I have also grilled or fried the bread for variation. Again, this is where a fixed-blade slicer can speed things up.
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Talk about an identity crisis! Romanesco looks like cauliflower but tastes more like broccoli! And it appears to have arrived from a far and distant planet. Even though this other-wordy vegetable looks too pretty to eat…please do because it is delicious!
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Tagged with: romanesco
This is another result of a Tour du Fridge. I usually have extra grains in the freezer just for dishes like this. When I cook grains I always make more than I think I’ll need so I can freeze some for dishes like this, or just for a mixed grain pilaf. Defrost gently in the microwave or float the bag in warm water. This dish is great with sausage.
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This is a riff on a dish I found in “Vegetables A to Z” by Elizabeth Schneider. The result is sublime. I find it interesting to note the changes in flavor as I eat the different colors of the leek, from the white to the palest green to the more uniform green. Try these as a starter or have as a side with roast chicken, salmon, or braised beef.
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This dish is great as a side or as a base to stack things like cooked greens and grains on. I like to use a rack to cook these on so they can crisp on both sides, but if you don’t have a rack, just use a well oiled piece of foil on a sheet pan.
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No meat in this, but the presentation, the thin slices, and the fact that it is raw make the connection in my mind. This is one of those times you want a fixed blade slicer. It can be done with a knife, but it will be a challenge. Cousa and zucchini are ideal for this dish, and Pattypan will work as well, but I think crooknecks are best left for other preparations. This dish lends itself to variations, from really simple to simple but elegant. The dressing can be scattered as separate ingredients or made into a vinaigrette, the garnish can be skipped or be complex-it’s all up to what you want at the time.
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This is a dish that straddles the line between soup and stew. It is similar to Ribbolita or Minestrone, and is the sort of thing you can eat for 2-3 days, changing it each day by adding something or other to the pot and cooking it a little longer. Also, if you have a Parmesan cheese rind, this is a great time to use it.
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Tagged with: beans • carrots • celery • cranberry shelling beans • herbs • lacinato kale • oregano • parsley • sausage • soup
Here is my riff on a French classic. Although the lettuce may seem an odd thing to include, it really does work here. This recipe is more of a guideline really, as cooking times will depend a lot on the peas. There are many versions of this recipe, and here is one more. The only thing to really watch out for is overcooking the peas, so taste one every few minutes, and when they are almost done, add the lettuce to finish off. This recipe is for 2 cups/2 pounds of peas, which gives a good sized portion to each person. The recipe varies easily enough, so base amounts on the volume of peas you have.
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A riff on a classic French bistro recipe. Leeks are sometimes referred to as “poor man’s asparagus”, and this is a dish that can be as easily done with asparagus. Most recipes call for cooking the leeks in water, but I prefer to steam them. I feel it gives me better control of the cooking time and the leeks don’t absorb as much water, leaving them able to soak up more dressing.
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This recipe is for a salad that is used as a topping for breaded chops. The contrast between the hot crisp chop and the cool salad with its peppery bite and slight acid from tomatoes and vinaigrette makes for a wonderful dish. This salad is also excellent on its own, or as a topping for bruschetta.
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This features one of my favorite combos used as a contrast to earthy flavors-plumped raisins and nuts. This recipe uses a large pan-12 or 14 inches. If you do not have a pan that large, just decrease the volume. Figure for a 10 inch pan use ¼ less cauliflower and pull a little of the other ingredients.
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Tagged with: cauliflower
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