Posts by: Andrew Cohen
This is a simple dressing where the jelly fills in for herbs and the sugar adds balance to the vinegar. Use this for the Caprese with a Twist salad or use it for pork chops or pan roasted chicken.
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Okay, let’s face it. Insalata Caprese is a wonderful thing, but it has become a “classic”. So, in the spirit of keeping things new and fresh (heh), here is a twist. At the Aptos Farmer’s Market, I tasted an Amethyst Basil jelly from Fogline Farm, and immediately thought of this, especially since I had just gotten some heirloom tomatoes. There are a ton of recipes for basil and purple basil jelly/jam out there, and I think it is a great “secret ingredient” to have on hand for many things. This one is a nice amethyst color with a light body and just right scent. It is perfect for this salad.
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This dish got its name when my wife would ask what’s for dinner and I’d say, “Seared fish with a small tomato salad”. Not small because I use small tomatoes, but because I never made that much of it. This salad depends entirely on the tomatoes, so use the best. I like to use several different types of heirloom tomatoes for the different colors and flavors they bring to the plate. This is the basic salad that I use to top seared fish, but see below for other uses.
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I love the smokey sweet flavor of Pimenton de la Vera ( Spanish smoked paprika) and am always looking for ways to show it off in dishes. This was a dish that came together on the fly to complement an herbed grilled steak and grilled Padron peppers, and I was quite happy with the results.
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This is based on a traditional Indian recipe, but I have simplified it a fair bit. One thing that is different is the addition of garlic, which I have found is usually not used in Hindi cooking. This dish is good as is, but can also have garbanzo beans added to it to make it more substantial. The optional garnish of fried shallots is not necessary but does taste great.
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This is my riff on a dish from “The Silver Spoon Pasta” book, and it is the epitome of “easy”. It is perfect for when you are bushed and want something quick and simple. However, because it is so simple, there is nowhere for inferior ingredients to hide, so only use tomatoes that are full of flavor, and basil that is fresh and aromatic.
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There are many versions of this salad, but the universal constant seems to be old bread and tomatoes and onions. I figure this salad grew out of the “cucina povera” canon, where waste, want not was the theme. Before Columbus, tomatoes were not part of this dish, but they certainly are now. This is a great way to use up older bread, but if you can’t wait, just rip up the bread early in the day and let it sit out a few hours, or throw it in the oven on low. I have also grilled or fried the bread for variation. Again, this is where a fixed-blade slicer can speed things up.
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With the sweet and nutty tasting dressing, this is a cole slaw even kids love. My kids are always happy to see this salad, and I took it to a couple different school potlucks and discovered it was a hit there, both with the parents and the kids. Again, this is so easy with a fixed-blade slicer. Use the medium comb for the carrots, and just the blade for the cabbage, and slice it thinly.
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Certainly the easiest way to cook Padrons, especially if you are grilling already, and you happen to have a spritz bottle for your oil. Keep an eye on these as they go quickly. When I first made these, I only did a few, figuring the kids wouldn’t care for them. Wrong! By the time I cleaned the grill and sat down, they had eaten most of them. Fortunately, it didn’t take long to grill up some more for myself.
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INGREDIENTS:
½ pound haricot vert (filet beans) 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon finely minced shallot ½ teaspoon finely minced thyme A pinch of kosher salt Fresh ground black pepper to taste 3-4 oz. heavy whipping creamContinue reading »
One of the things I like to do in the kitchen is make vegetable dishes using the same method as I would a meat dish. In this instance, I was thinking of a pot roast done with Chantenay carrots instead of chuck roast. I love Chantenay carrots, especially when they get bigger. The stubby shape with the larger diameter makes them perfect for trimming into larger shapes that take a longer cooking yielding a deep flavor. For the potatoes, you want a waxy potato that will hold it’s shape when cooked, and the Bintje is great for this.
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Sort of like mashed potatoes, but with turnips and onions. There are some great tasting yellow fleshed potatoes appearing at market right now and these give a great nutty and sweet flavor to the mash. The potato is there to add texture and to soften the sharpness turnip sometimes has. If you do not have these potatoes, use a russet instead. I like the scallions for their bright flavor and lighter oniony-ness. Feel free to substitute leek or brown onion if you don’t have scallions.
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At some point, I will try to “caramelize” every vegetable that comes my way. Sometimes the dish doesn’t work out. This time it did. There are enough natural sugars in the squash that no sugar is needed in the ingredients. I usually do this with zucchini, but the technique will work with all manner of summer squash, although squash like Pattypan (the flying saucer ones) take a couple minutes more to prep for uniform slices. Making this with different color squash makes for a very nice presentation.
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Another one from my “You can cook that?!” file. To many, the idea of cooking cucumbers seems radical, but to me it just seemed right. They are, after all, related to squash. Try these when you are looking for something light. They sometimes have a tinge of bitterness to them that makes them a good foil for things like grilled salmon or poached chicken. Accompanying flavors should be things like dill, tarragon, mint, or a little lemon zest. Avoid more pungent herbs like thyme, rosemary, and oregano. Marjoram can work if you use a light hand. This recipe is very simple, so it is about timing and balance to show off the cucumber flavor. I have other cucumber recipes that sauté the cucumbers until browned a little with onions and are seasoned more aggressively with garlic and herbs, but I love this one for it’s subtlety and ease.
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INGREDIENTS:
1 medium brown onion, medium diced 1 tablespoon sherry or balsamic vinegar 3 medium potatoes such as Romanze, Red-Gold, or Desiree 1 bunch of arugula, heavy stems removed, and leaves washedContinue reading »
Padrons are a treat that until recently were found only in Spain, usually at a tapas joint. With a flavor that is hard to describe, it almost seems padrons can be addictive. There are several “basic” methods of cooking these peppers, and this is my take on the most common. Many people deep fry the peppers, but I tend towards the frugal so I prefer to shallow fry the peppers. For stovetop cooking, I also feel I have a little more control this way. Remember not to over load the pan with peppers or you lower the temperature of the oil too much and wind up with limp, soggy peppers. The idea is to blister the skin and brown the peppers a little. Be sure to use a large crystal salt-the crunch it provides is part of the whole experience. By the way, smaller padron peppers are usually mild, but a hot one shows up now and again. This is part of the joy of eating these peppers I think, that little thrill you get wondering if the next one might sting a little. When padrons get larger, say longer than 2 inches, they suddenly turn on the heat and can/usually deliver quite a bit of fire, so be careful.
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This is a basic recipe for cooking up “Braising Mix”, which is typically a mixture of things like curly kale, lacinato kale, collards, chard and sometimes I see mustard greens in the mixes as well. Many people just sauté these greens, but I prefer them cooked longer. This method softens the greens themselves, and helps add nuance of flavor and mitigates the earthiness greens have.
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When it comes to storing your produce, one thing that is really helpful to know is which parts of your refrigerator maintain what temperatures. Every refrigerator is a little different. Most units have drawers for vegetables (I know them as “crispers”. Since having kids, no drawers have been large enough to hold my weekly vegetable haul.). Outside of the drawers the internal temps will vary from place to place, with the lower parts of the refrigerator being the coldest.
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Chunky Zucchini Potato Braise
I saw something similar to this and the idea intrigued me. I love chunky vegetable braises where I treat the vegetables like meat, browning them and then cooking them in a modicum of liquid. This recipe lists zucchini, but you can use other summer squash just as easily. Just remember to cut them into asymmetric sizes. Use a roll cut for long squash, and for things like Pattypan just cut them into wedges. For the “roll cut”, trim the squash, then make a cut at a 45° angle relative to the edge of the cutting board. Roll the squash a quarter turn and cut again, about 1 to 1½ inches between each cut. This gives an interesting shape that is uniform, but won’t stack up and leave uncooked surfaces.
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This is based on a traditional recipe. Or, not so much a recipe as a technique. “Scapece” is basically fried vegetables that are scattered with herbs and vinegar and allowed time to marinate. Served room temperature or gently reheated, this dish serves as an appetizer or salad, or side dish. Most of the recipes use zucchini, but I have seen it done with carrots, eggplant, and peppers. Typically fried, I have seen a version where everything is grilled and then marinated. Although most recipes use red wine vinegar, I have seen some using balsamic vinegar or white wine vinegar. I could see using white balsamic vinegar for a nice light twist. This is another recipe that begs for the use of a fixed blade slicer like the Ben Riner.
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This is based on one of the many “salads” that show up in Moroccan cooking. Although you seldom see green salad as we know them, Moroccan cuisine has many “salads” that start a meal, and then are left out to accompany whatever else is served. They can be served cold or at room temperature. You can use whatever type of olive you wish, but I prefer an oil cured black olive here. You can use them whole if you wish, but I prefer to pit them and cut them into smaller pieces.
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Lamb neck can come as slices or chunks cut lengthwise and split. This is what I prefer. Although bony, the meat of the neck is very flavorful and is wonderful for braises and tagines. This recipe yields meat that is almost falling off the bone. The flavors can easily be varied, as can the vegetables. See the Chef’s Notes at the end for variations. Although the recipe seems long, it isn’t really, and once you’ve done it, it is easily done again. This is one of those dishes where the Ben-Riner mandolin knocks the time down to minutes.
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Think of how often a dish starts with a sauté of onions, carrots, and celery. In Italy this combination is called soffritto. In France it is cooked with butter and called mirepoix, but for general purposes I like it cooked with a light flavored olive oil or even grapeseed oil, which is neutrally flavored, so I call it by the Italian name. I like to make this in larger batches, removing some when it is still pale, or blond, then cooking the remaining amount until it is a darker shade of amber, giving it a caramelized flavor. I sometimes even let some go until it is quite dark, like tobacco, for a very deep flavor. I then freeze it in batches. I use large zip bags and flatten out the soffritto in the bags, making it easier to stack and easier to simply break off the amount I wish to use. Some people freeze it in ice trays as you might pesto. However you store it, having this in the freezer is like having a time machine. It can make having good tasting food on the table much quicker, or if you have several pans going at once it is quite helpful as well as it is easy to burn smaller amounts of onions.
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Most of the time celery is thought of in a supporting role, or as diet food, if it is thought of at all. Integral to so many dishes as part of a base, most would never think of celery as a dish on it’s own, but here it is. This dish has succulence, a bit of crunch, and a clean flavor. Elemental in its simplicity, it makes a great complement or foil for many dishes. High quality butter for this is important as it is all there is to flavor the dish besides the celery. The butter thickens to form a light sauce coating the celery batons.
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