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This is a riff on a dish I found in “Vegetables A to Z” by Elizabeth Schneider. The result is sublime. I find it interesting to note the changes in flavor as I eat the different colors of the leek, from the white to the palest green to the more uniform green. Try these as a starter or have as a side with roast chicken, salmon, or braised beef.
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There actually are no roasted mushrooms in this dressing. It gets its name from the fact that the trimmings from a recipe for roasted mushrooms are what is used to give this dressing its flavor, although you could roast the trimmings instead of sautéing them if you wish. This dressing would be nice on grilled or roasted fish topped with roasted oyster mushrooms and this dressing, with some baby mustard greens, mizuna, or arugula tossed in.
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The “sauce” is similar, I suppose, to a salsa verde (Italian, not Mexican), except it has nuts. And no capers or lemon. Anyway, the bright herbaceousness and the nutty flavors work really well with the earthy sweetness of the squash. Kabocha tend to be drier than other squash, such as acorn or butternut, so the topping is stands out all the more. Pine nuts are a great choice in lieu of hazels, and you could even give this dish a South West slant by using cinnamon and coriander seed on the squash and adding a little cilantro to the garnish. The peel is edible on kabocha by the way.
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This dish is easy to throw together and has big impact in the flavor department. Given that vegetable sizes are not exact, the measurements for the oil, butter, and salt are more of a guideline, really, and should be adjusted as needed. Be sure not to have too much liquid in the pan bottom or you may get mushy vegetables. A little bit of liquid in the pan bottom is fine, and will make a nice sauce at the end to be poured over the vegetables. If you do not have the turnips, skip them and use more parsnips or try adding carrots. Cut the carrots like the parsnips, but maybe a little smaller as parsnips cook faster than carrots. You could also use leeks here. Try cutting a leek on the diagonal into 1-inch long rounds and adding them into the mix.
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You can make this dressing with whatever peppers you wish, but avoid mixing colors or risk winding up with an unappetizing shade of blech. Also, if you use spicy peppers and this is a dressing for a salad, consider using some mild peppers in there to mitigate the heat. If you are making this as a condiment to drizzle onto a plate, go for it.
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Tagged with: Corno di Toro peppers • dressing • padron peppers • peppers • salad • shishito peppers • vinaigrette
The meaty, winey Portobello mushroom and the nutty starchy farro mellow the bitter and earthy flavor of the radicchio while the sweetness of the carrot and onion dice act as a counterpoint. This is a dish with some substance, and the mushrooms make a good substitute for meat texturally and flavor-wise.
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The Creamed Lacinato with Marsala can be used as a side dish or used to top crostini for appetizers. With a couple changes it works as a stuffing for ravioli or a squash gratin.
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Simple, but the flavors play so well together. The slow cooking of the carrots really sweetens them and brings out the “carrot-ness” of them, while the Allium Topping contrasts with funk and top notes. This topping goes well with other things such as steak, salmon, potatoes braised with tomatoes and pimenton de la vera.
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Onions are usually relegated to supporting roles in cooking, and I am always trying to find ways to make them the “star”. The inspiration for this came from a Silver Spoon cookbook, and this recipe definitely does that. Like onions in recipes, this dish could go with most anything. It is a little sweet, a little savory, without being “oniony”. The onion shows various shades of purple, and the shape of the wedges lend themselves to nice arrangements on the plate. If you like onions in the least, try this dish. It doesn’t hurt that it is quite easy. The hardest part is peeling the onions. Be sure to use a sharp knife for this. This dish is popular with kids.
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Here’s a riff on a salsa I do that is usually made with mint as the dominant herb. This has cilantro instead, with an addition of mint as an option, and is a sprightlier version of the salsa. It’s good with chips, but really it goes with so much more.
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Roasting the tomatoes concentrates the tomato sweetness, while also adding a haunting roasted background note. The basil oil is a great finish, and you could use Thai basil for the oil which would be great also. If you don’t have that handy, the mint crema (yogurt and mint) will work fine. You could also drizzle with some balsamic vinegar, especially if you have some of the thick aged stuff stashed.
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Pistou is the French equivalent of pesto, but has no nuts or cheese. The cheese is added either to the soup or scattered over the soup at the end. This soup is only inspired and is not a true pistou, just in case any Provençal are reading this.
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Tagged with: carrots • cranberry shelling beans • filet beans • green beans • potatoes • rainbow carrots • San Marzano tomatoes • shelling beans • soup • summer squash • tomatoes • zucchini
Gremolata is the traditional topping for osso bucco made of lemon zest, garlic, and parsley all chopped finely and mixed. I like to riff on that, varying the herbs and adding breadcrumbs or nuts. I also think that summer squash is always enhanced by dry cooking methods such as roasting.
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Although the notion of the apricots may seem odd, they are a nice contrast to the slightly bitter lettuce and earthy beets, and the acid is nice against the cheese. Sort of like using dried cranberries or raisins in a salad, but brighter. Whatever you use, the cheese should be a lightly crumbly and not too salty. Think in terms of little logs of chevre, a less briny feta, or even ricotta salata grated.
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This recipe takes its inspiration from Crab Louis salad, but the dressing is a lightened version made with oil infused with shrimp shells. This oil is very aromatic and wonderfully evocative of the sea. This oil is a great flavor booster for pasta dishes, seafood soups, bouillabaisse, or light sauces for seafood such as a red pepper coulis.
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A classic pairing in cuisine is red beets with tarragon. It makes sense, then, that chervil, with its lighter tarragon/licorice/anise-like flavor would also make a good combo. The sweetness from the carrots and the chervil will bring out the sweet flavor of the beets and accentuate the sweet and bitter qualities of the romaine.
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From what I can gather, “Roman Style” here means “with mint”. I love mint, and I love artichokes. So…
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Romanesco is often described as a cross between cauliflower and broccoli, but I think it has its own personality. It is denser than either of the others, and is more resistant to developing the brassica “funk” that the other two get when cooked too long in water. I like the denser texture which allows Romanesco to caramelize well, and I really enjoy the fractal look of the florets.
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Talk about an identity crisis! Romanesco looks like cauliflower but tastes more like broccoli! And it appears to have arrived from a far and distant planet. Even though this other-wordy vegetable looks too pretty to eat…please do because it is delicious!
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Tagged with: romanesco
When my rosemary plant flowers, I like to collect the flowers and infuse honey with them. I use this fragrant honey to glaze vegetables and pork, for lacquering poultry, and on yogurt. I love the floral notes this infusion gives up. See recipe below for making rosemary flower infused honey.
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This is another result of a Tour du Fridge. I usually have extra grains in the freezer just for dishes like this. When I cook grains I always make more than I think I’ll need so I can freeze some for dishes like this, or just for a mixed grain pilaf. Defrost gently in the microwave or float the bag in warm water. This dish is great with sausage.
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Ingredients:
½ gram saffron threads
4 tablespoons olive oil
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Tagged with: potatoes
Sometimes I have artichokes and am not sure when I will get them into a menu, so I will just cook them when I get the chance whether I intend to serve them at that moment or not. They are good cold, can be re-heated, or worked into something else, as happened here. The combination of artichoke and potato is a great one, especially with sweet waxy potatoes such as Yukon Golds or a fingerling type. This salad would be good with some cauliflower florets blanched and dressed while hot, then cooled and added in.
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Tagged with: artichoke • basil • butter lettuce • carrots • lemon • lettuce • pepper cress • potatos • salad
This salad originated as a substitute for the salad that goes on Elephant Ears (see recipe on site), but has found its way onto grilled chicken, crisp multi-grain or mochi waffles, toast, mixed with seared scallops, and used as a side salad. Switch to hazelnuts and use hazelnut oil, do the same with almonds. Use fresh apricots when you find some that are fragrant, flavorful, but still a little firm.
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Sometimes simple is best. If you want to add a little more dimension to this, New Natives grows broccoli microgreens which perfectly straddle the line between arugula and almond, and will add loft to the salad. Gorgonzola Dolce is a sweeter version of Gorgonzola, but if you cannot find it, just use Gorgonzola.
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This is a simple salad of big earthy flavors and it makes a nice foil to rich dishes. It can also be a base for an entree salad, draped with strips of grilled beef or tofu, or bits of roast chicken. I would not add much in the way of lettuce, although the addition of mizuna and cresses such as peppercress or watercress would certainly work. Some softer, mildly sweet blue cheese such as Bleu d’Auvergne, Gorgonzola, or Fourme d’Ambert would go well, and you can scatter some dried cranberries or cherries over as well.
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I tend to think of this as Christmas Salad. Not because of when it is served, but because of the reds and greens of its colors and the jewel-like look of the pieces. This would be a good “company” salad as you can cut all the components except the avocado in advance. Then it is just a matter of assembling it at the last moment. This salad is a study in contrasts of colors and textures, and is fun to eat. If cutting lots of cubes seems like too much work, see Chef’s Notes for an easy variation.
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The “dressing” is fairly chunky, and could be considered a condiment as well. This salad makes a nice side to grilled fish or chicken, or you can omit the lettuce and use the dressed radishes as a topping for something.
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Tagged with: butter lettuce • Italian parsley • lettuce • Meyer lemon • mint • radishes • salad • shallots
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