Slowly braising Romano beans renders them meltingly tender, but they retain their shape and pick up a sweet and nutty quality. The other vegetables in the dish become silky and the chard adds depth and earthiness. Bacon always goes well with beans and greens, but if you prefer not to use it, substitute some sweet smoked paprika.
INGREDIENTS:
1-1½ pounds Romano beans, ends trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths 2 strips bacon, thick sliced, cut into ¼-inch batons (or ¼ teaspoon Pimenton de la Vera Dulce, or to taste) 1 bunch baby leeks, whites and pale green parts, sliced 1-inch long diagonally (enough to yield 1 cup or less) 2-3 cloves garlic, minced 1 bunch chard, washed, leaves and stems separated, stems chopped fairly fine (1/8th inch or so), leaves cut into smaller bite-sized bits 2-4 ounces white wine ¼ cup water ¼ teaspoon fresh thyme or oregano, minced 2 tablespoons white balsamic or white wine vinegar Olive oil as needed Salt and pepperMETHOD:
Heat a 3 or 4 quart sauteuse, or wide bottomed pan, with a tight fitting lid over medium heat and cook the bacon slowly until crisp and the fat renders. Take your time so the bacon cooks gently and doesn’t burn, and you get as much of the fat as you can. Once the bacon has cooked, remove from the pan to a paper towel to drain. If there is a lot of fat in the pan, drain and reserve it, leaving enough to coat the pan bottom.
(If you do not use bacon, add a pinch or two of the smoked 10 minutes before the dish is done-make a well in the center of the vegetables and scatter the pimenton into the area. Cook a couple minutes and then gently turn the vegetables to coat with the pimenton.)
Make sure to bacon fat is hot, then add the chard stems and leeks to the pan and toss to coat with the fat. Cook gently to soften the vegetables until they turn “clear”.
Make a well in the center of the vegetables, and add a little oil if needed, then add the garlic and the herbs. Cook until fragrant, stirring to prevent burning. When fragrant and softened, add the wine and cook, stirring a little, and cook until the wine has reduced by 90%. Add the beans and stir to coat and combine with the other ingredients. Drizzle with a little olive oil and stir. Season with salt and a good dash of pepper. Add the ¼ cup water and bring to a boil with the lid on.
Reduce the heat to as low as it will go, then cook 45 minutes to an hour. (Do not monkey with the pot for the first 25 minutes. After 25 minutes, check to be sure there still is water-there should be. If not add a couple tablespoons. As long as there is liquid in the pan, do not add anything! If it seems there is a fair amount and the beans are not softened at all, you can boost the heat just a little. Everyone’s stove is a little different. Once you have cooked this, you will know what to do differently from the recipe. Replace the lid and carry on.) Check at the 45 minute mark. The beans should be meltingly tender, but will still hold their shape. If not, cook 15 minutes more and check.
When the beans become really tender, it is time to cook the chard. Make a well in the center of the vegetables, add the chard, bacon, and vinegar and flip the beans onto the chard. Cook until the chard wilts and is tender and the vinegar reduces to almost nothing. The dish is now ready to serve. If there is a fair amount of liquid still in the pan, place the beans in a serving dish and return the pan with the liquid to the stove. Turn up the heat and reduce to a couple tablespoons and drizzle over the beans, then serve.
Chef’s Notes: Although this cooking time seems insanely long, it really does produce excellent results. Some flat beans get a fuzzy furry feeling on the outside when cooked in water for too long, but this method never produces that. This is also a good way to cook any pole bean that is tough. It even works with tender filet beans without them turning to mush. Also, even though the ¼ cup or water seems too little, do not add more. It only takes a bit of steam to do the work-it is as though like calls to like, and the moisture in the pan calls out the moisture in the vegetables adding to what is in the pan to prevent burning and adding flavor at the same time.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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