Braised Summer Squash with Fennel, Olives, Basil, and Chard

This is a Provençal inspired recipe with a twist. Some people find that summer squash has a subtly bitter flavor, which is unpleasant for them. This recipe plays that flavor up, and also counters it, by using caramelized sugar on the surface of the cuts on the squash. Caramelized sugar has both a bitter quality and sweetness, as do the squash. Costata Romanesco, Cousa, and tromboncini squash (look for this unusual squash at markets) all have firmer flesh than zucchini or crookneck, and can be seared and browned without getting mushy as quickly the latter. If using a mélange of these, add the zucchini and crooknecks later than the rest. These squash also pick up an almond-like nutty flavor when caramelized.

INGREDIENTS:

1½ pounds mixed summer squash halved lengthwise, then cut into 3 inch lengths

½ white or yellow onion, sliced into 1/8^th inch half-moons

1-2 medium fennel bulbs, stalks trimmed, halved and cored, cut across 1/8^th inch slices

1 cup olives such as Niçoise, Picholine, Ligurian, or Kalamata

1 bunch chard, stems removed and reserved for another meal, cut crossways into ½ inch strips

Olive oil as needed

1-2 tablespoons sugar

10-15 basil leaves

½ cup of white wine or vegetable stock

METHOD:

Heat a 12 inch skillet or sauteuse over medium heat. When the pan is hot, film with a very little oil.

Evenly dust the cut surfaces of the squash with the sugar. When the oil is hot, add the squash, sugared sides down, and try not to crowd the pieces. (If the pan will be crowded, do the next step in a couple stages.) Cook the squash so the sugar caramelizes and turns a golden brown. It should smell sweet and right on the edge of burning. As each sugared surface caramelizes, use tongs to flip the pieces so the skin side of the squash gets blistered and browns. Remove each piece as it turns golden all over to a platter. Cook all the squash in this manner.

Once the squash is all done, add a little oil to the pan and add the onions and the fennel. Toss to coat with the oil, and sauté until the vegetables are tender but remain white. Season with a little salt and pepper.

Add half the wine to the pan and use a wooden spatula to scrape the pan bottom to loosen any “fond” (this is the French term for the bits of goodness that cook onto a pan bottom, whether it is from meat or caramelized vegetables and sugar) on the pan bottom. Stir it into the wine to dissolve. Add the squash back into the pan, caramelized sides up, then scatter the olives over and around the squash. Rip up the basil leaves if they are large and scatter over the contents of the pan. Cover the top of the vegetables with the shreds of chard, season with salt and pepper, a quick drizzle of olive oil. Pour in the rest of the wine and put a top on the pan. Lift the pan from the burner and swirl the pan by the handle to spread the wine around the pan bottom.

Return the pan to the heat and cook 1-2 minutes, shaking the pan often to prevent burning. After 2 minutes, remove the lid. The chard should have just wilted down and the squash should be just cooked through. The texture you are looking for is tender with a little crunch or resistance still to it.  When the squash is ready, use tongs or a large spoon to turn the vegetables in the pan to combine them, then transfer to a large platter. If there is still liquid in the pan, add a drizzle of oil and stir while boiling the liquid down. When it gets a little syrupy, pour over the vegetables and serve.

Serves: 4

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen