Here, Butternut squash slices replace potatoes in variation of a typical gratin. Vegetable stock stands in for the usual dairy, and bread crumbs are there to soak up moisture and add some texture and loft. Chard adds a contrast to the sweetness of the squash, and you could mix potato slices into the squash slices if you wish to tone the sweetness down as well.
INGREDIENTS:
2-3 pounds butternut squash (1-2 medium/small squash), or squash and waxy potatoes (Not Russets), peeled* and sliced into 3/8ths to 1/4 inch thick rounds
1 bunch red or rainbow chard, stemmed, stems cut into ¼ inch dice, leaves cut into 1 inch squares (roughly thereabouts), washed and dried
3 medium yellow or white onions, cut into ¼ inch dice
3 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 cups red wine
3-4 cups, or as needed, crisp coarse bread crumbs, homemade or panko style preferred**
1 teaspoon each fresh thyme and marjoram, or thyme and ¼ teaspoon rosemary, minced
2 tablespoons good-quality red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
4-5 cups good quality vegetable stock, at a low simmer
1 stick butter, frozen (Don’t panic! You will not be using much of it. If it’s just easier to get thin bits with a peeler when it is frozen.)+ some for sautéing, as needed
Olive oil as needed- use a non-Tuscan oil, and try for something buttery and not too sharp
1½-2 cups Gruyère cheese, or as needed, grated
METHOD:
Heat oven to 400°F. Heat a large pan over medium heat. Throw a swivel peeler into the freezer.
When skillet is hot, film liberally with oil. When oil is hot, add a tablespoon of butter. When butter is done bubbling, add onions and chard stems and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and carefully cook until translucent and tender without browning.
While onions cook, rub the inside of a 9×11 inch/2½ or 3 quart gratin dish with a garlic clove (Use one of the garlic cloves that gets minced for the dish) and then some butter or oil. Be sure to get the corners. Set aside.
Once onions/chard stems are tender, make a well in the center and be sure the clearing has some oil in it. Add garlic and cook until fragrant. Toss and stir. Add half the herbs, and season with salt and pepper. Add the wine and cook until reduced by 50 percent.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer half the onions to the bottom of the gratin dish. Add the chard leaves to the pan with the remaining onions, and toss to blend ingredients. Add the red wine vinegar. Cook until the leaves are thoroughly wilted and the wine has evaporated. Remove from the heat to a cool surface so the leaves stop cooking.
Scatter a quarter of the bread crumbs over the onions in the pan bottom. Layer in slices of squash (or squash/potatoes), overlapping by 75% for the first layer. Use a quarter of the slices. Season, and layer in one-third of the chard-onion mixture. Season and coat with a quarter of the bread crumbs. Repeat until you reach the last layer of squash, scattering herbs on the layers as you go.
Make sure stock is hot. Pour in stock until comes come three-quarters of the way up the gratin. Use a spatula to push the squash layers down so they will get some moisture. Use the frozen peeler to shave frozen butter, enough thin shavings to cover the top of the gratin. Drizzle with a little oil as well. Place on a sheet pan and place in the center of the hot oven and bake for 25-35 minutes, or a bit more. Most or all of the liquid should be absorbed and the top of the gratin should be golden, and a thin sharp knife should pierce the top easily.
When this stage has been reached, scatter the top of the gratin with the cheese and return to the oven for 8-15 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and browning and bubbly. Remove gratin from oven and allow to cool a few minutes before serving. This allows the gratin to set up and helps prevent people burning themselves.
Chef’s Notes: *To peel butternut squash: Do not bother with a peeler, just cut off the globular bottom of the squash, the top of the cylinder and base of the globe. Stand the cylinder on the cut base and use a large chef’s knife to cut the skin away from the squash by cutting down the side of the squash, turning the squash after each stroke. For the base, do the same, just follow the curve. Split the globe and scoop out the seeds, then trim the halves to best get the size cubes you need. **Other bread forms you can use- if you have half a loaf of semi-stale country/rustic bread such as a campagne, francese, etc., slice it very thinly and brush with oil and bake in oven until golden and just crisp. Layer in where the crumbs would go. Or, if you have a package of good quality bread cubes left from the holidays, smack them with a pan bottom to break them down a bit and use them in lieu of breadcrumbs.
Serves: 4, at least
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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