Carrot Persillade

Persillade is a condiment or topping, the most basic version of which is a mixture of chopped flat leaf parsley (persil in French) and garlic. Here is a riff on my variation that includes toasted bread crumbs that add a nutty quality, as well as crunch to a dish. This version uses grated or chopped carrots to add moisture and sweetness. The carrots must be chopped fairly finely to release enough moisture to achieve the desired effect. To that end, coarsely grate the carrots and then use a knife that is not razor sharp, or pulse in a food processor or blender.

INGREDIENTS:

1 cup flat leaf parsley, mostly leaves

2 cloves garlic, minced finely/pulverized, but not smashed-use a very sharp knife with the sides wetted with water

1½ cups bread crumbs, preferably home made

Olive oil as needed

Salt and Pepper to taste, freshly fine ground preferred

½ teaspoon fresh thyme, minced

1 cup (2-3 carrots) ground/finely chopped carrots-large flavorful Chantenay type preferred, but any moist and sweet carrot with lots of flavor will do*

Optional: ¼ cup heaping shelled salted pistachios, chopped as finely as the carrots (do not use a food processor as the heat and power will soften/mush the nuts and you want them to still retain crunch)

METHOD:

Use the big hole of a box grater and not-your-sharpest knife to create a finely chopped meal a little coarser than the bread crumbs, or pulse in a food processor to get the same size. Be sure to pulse and scrape down, pulse and scrape down repeatedly to get these results. Scraping down is important. When you have gotten to the right size remove all but a couple tablespoons and chop/process to a fine wet mess, and then add to the rest of the carrots, being sure to scrape in any available liquid. Very lightly season with a little salt. Stir around, then reserve.

Using a very sharp knife, chop the parsley very finely and mix with the garlic.

Heat a large heavy skillet over medium heat.

Put the crumbs into a bowl and add a very small amount of olive oil. Use your fingers to toss the crumbs thoroughly. Add just enough oil so the crumbs are moist, but not wet. Add salt and pepper, and the thyme, to the crumbs and add to the hot pan. Stirring all the while, cook the crumbs until they are golden and smell toasty. Get a good golden brown color on them, and as soon as they are colored, empty the pan into a large bowl and toss and stir until cooled.

When cooled, add the persillade (parsley garlic mixture) and stir well to combine. Add in the carrots, stirring well. If using, add the pistachios. If the mixture seems dry, add a little olive oil until the mixture is moist like a damp sand, but not wet. Taste for seasoning. If salt is required, do not add until just before using the persillade or the parsley will blacken and the carrots may weep and the all crunch will be wiped out.

The persillade is ready to use. Store in a covered container until ready to use, or freeze.

Chef’s Notes: * For carrots, if you rub your thumb hard on the shoulder of the carrot and then sniff there it will give you some idea of whether or not the carrot is sweet, and will also give an idea of whether the carrot is moist. If sweet, you can smell the sugars, and if moist you will feel it on your thumb. Although using red carrots would be pretty, I find most of the deep red carrots to be pretty dry. Use this persillade on roasted broccoli or carrots (the raw and roasted make a fun flavor combo to explore), chicken, or sturdy fish such as halibut, ling cod, or something similar.

Yield: Around 2 cups

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen