Cauliflower, Romanesco, and Carrot Quickles
I love vinegary foods, and I love foods that are quick to make. This hits on both accounts, and keeps well in the refrigerator. The dish is colorful and brightly flavored, and is a riff on the shallot quickles developed for the Harvest Festival.
INGREDIENTS:
2 carrots, peeled and cut diagonally into ¼ inch thick slices 1-2 ribs celery, rinse and sliced diagonally into ¼ inch thick slices 1½ cups of cauliflower florets, around 1 inch diameter (cut to size as needed) 1½ cups of romanesco florets, around 1 inch diameter (cut to size as needed) ½ red onion cut through the root and peeled, sliced into ¼ inch slices 3 tablespoons medium flake Diamond Crystal salt (or similar size) plus more as needed 1½ cups white wine vinegar 1 cup water(up to ½ cup more to taste) ½ cup sugar 1-2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved lengthwise 1 bay leaf 1½ inch long fresh rosemary sprig tip 2 sprigs fresh thyme 10 whole peppercorns
METHOD:
In a large non-reactive bowl, toss the carrots, cauliflower, romanesco, and onions with the salt, turning to be sure the vegetables are coated well all over. Allow to sit, tossing occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, or until the onions are becoming pliable. At this point, rinse the vegetables well and drain. Add the celery to the mix. While the vegetables are taking the salt bath, bring the vinegar, water, and sugar to a boil. Cook until the sugar goes into suspension (Disappears into the vinegar.) Reduce the heat to a bare simmer and add the garlic, herbs, and spices and cook at least 5 minutes to bloom the flavors of the aromatics. After the vegetables drain, put them back into the rinsed and dried non-reactive bowl (better yet, if you have a tall container such as a jar that will hold them all and keep them submerged, use that) and pour the hot pickling solution over the vegetables. Toss to coat them and transfer them to the refrigerator to cool. Turn them in the liquid every 15 minutes for the first hour. Allow to cool before using, or use while still warm if the “pickling” solution has flavored the vegetables enough.
Chef’s Notes and Tips:
Different vinegars can be used here to good effect. Try using cider vinegar, rice vinegar, or even plain distilled vinegar. You can change the sweetener, using brown sugar or agave syrup. Instead of the herbs listed, try using coriander seed, allspice, mustard seed, dill seed, and a couple white peppercorns for a more classic “pickle” flavor, or a little coriander with some marjoram and thyme is also nice. If you like the idea of some heat, add 1 or 2 arbol, Thai, or other hot chilies to the hot liquid. For more heat, slit the chilies down the length.
Keep in the refrigerator to serve alongside sandwiches or dishes that are long cooked and rich. You could chop these up and use in deli sandwiches to add some spark.
Serves: Makes around 4 cups
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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