Finding different ways to use celery leaves besides sticking them in stock is a “chef thing”. Here is a dual recipe. Chopped, it makes a condiment to be used as you might Salsa Verde. Chopped finer in food processor you get a pesto like paste that can be used on pasta, or on slabs of cheese or smeared onto things. For pasta, try it with something like bucatini or try a whole grain noodle with a little more chew and deeper flavor. Barilla makes a “Plus” line that is made with spelt and barley, chickpeas and lentils, as well as semolina, that has a nice flavor that would go well with this recipe. Try it on fish or poultry-it would go well with turkey for instance. Use as a smear for the white meat or use on sandwiches of leftovers later.
INGREDIENTS:
1½-2 cups celery leaves, light green ones preferred ¼ cup packed flat leaf parsley 1 clove garlic, grated* or pulverized with a knife 1 good sized pinch salt ¼ cup pine nuts (or blanched almonds) toasted 2-3 tablespoons Pecorino Romano, or less Parmigiano-Reggiano 2-4 tablespoons mild flavored extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed ½ lemon, Meyer or Eureka, for juiceMETHOD:
For Condiment:
Chop the nuts medium-fine and reserve. Put the celery leaves and parsley together and use a sharp knife or mezzaluna to chop the leaves finely. If the blade is not sharp, you will be crushing the leaves and they will discolor quickly and taste muddy. Put the garlic into a large bowl and add 3 tablespoons of oil. Stir together to mix well, and add a tablespoon of lemon juice. Stir together. Add the chopped leaves and the nuts to the bowl, sprinkle with salt, and use a rubber spatula to combine well. Stir and taste a little. Add more lemon if you wish. Add in the cheese and stir to combine. If the condiment starts to bind up, add enough olive oil to loosen everything up. Taste and add lemon juice or salt if needed. When done, store in a jar in the refrigerator until ready to use with a film of oil over the top. This will keep 3 days, roughly.
For “Pesto”:
Put whole nuts, parsley, garlic, salt, and 2 tablespoons oil into a processor. Pulse to break up nuts and chop parsley. Scrape down the sides and add the celery leaves.
Remove from the processor top a non-reactive bowl and add the cheese. Stir in, adding more oil to reach a thickly textured sauce. Add some lemon juice to thin the sauce a little and balance the flavors. Taste-add more lemon or oil as needed. Store in a jar with a tight lid, filming the surface with oil to prevent oxidation. Keeps 3-4 days.
If you wish, you can do this in a mortar and pestle. Add the salt and garlic, then start with a pinch of parsley and celery leaves, adding leaves as the prior batch turn to paste. Add the nuts and smash to a paste, add a spoonful of lemon and some oil to achieve a wet sauce, then add the cheese and stir in. Add oil at the end to get the desired consistency. Check for balance and add lemon or salt if needed.
Chef’s Notes: * To grate garlic, use a steel Japanese ginger grater or a Microplane (the one for hard cheese works well). Grating the garlic prevents biting into any large bits of garlic which would not fit with the flavor of the dish. It also allows the flavors of the garlic to permeate the pesto more readily. Use this recipe for topping fish or poultry, or use the “Pesto” with pasta. Try it with pasta tossed with tomatoes, or use it to dribble onto slices of fresh mozzarella or slabs of roasted cauliflower rubbed with Meyer lemon juice before roasting.
Yield: Around 1 cup
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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