Celery, Tomato, and Summer Squash “Condiment”

For lack of a better word, this is called a “condiment”. It can be used as is to base or top grilled fish or chicken, or used with lettuce to make a salad with a bit more dressing. Add bits of buffalo mozzarella for a salad, or add capers for even more interest. Use Tetilla cheese or buffalo mozzarella and Marcona almonds as a topping for chicken, or mix with shreds of cabbage for a salad, or skip the cheese and use just the nuts.

INGREDIENTS:

2-3 (1½-2 cups) medium tomatoes, seeded and cut into 3/8ths inch cubes

4-5 (1 heaping cup) sticks celery, trimmed and cut into 1/4 inch cubes

2-4 (1½-2 cups) summer squash, rinsed and trimmed, cut into 3/8ths inch cubes

1 clove garlic, peeled

½ tablespoon fresh marjoram or oregano, chopped, or 6-10 basil leaves

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ cup white balsamic vinegar

½ cup olive plus more as needed

-Options-

1/3^rd cup roasted Marcona or plain almonds, coarsely chopped

1 cup buffalo mozzarella or Tetilla cheese, cut into ½ inch cubes

¼ cup heaping capers, drained

METHOD:

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.

While the pan heats, put squash into a large bowl and spray or drizzle with oil. Use hands to toss the squash and be sure all surfaces are lightly coated with oil.

Film the pan with oil, then pour out oil leaving only a very light film on the pan bottom.

Scatter the pan bottom with salt, then add enough squash to cover the bottom in a single layer. Leave for 30 seconds, or just long enough to color the squash just a bit.

Toss to carry this out on all the surfaces, then as soon as it is colored transfer to a sheet pan to cool.

Repeat with the remaining squash. Do not allow the squash to soften. The idea is to caramelize it just a little to bring out the sweetness, but leave it crunchy.

While the squash cools, rub a non-reactive bowl with the garlic clove until you see garlic oil on the surface of the bowl. Add the vinegar and some salt and pepper and a pinch of the fresh herbs. While whisking vigorously, drizzle in the oil. Taste the dressing. If it seems quite sharp, whisk in up to ¼ cup more oil. You want the dressing to be a little bracing to stand up to the celery and the acid of the tomatoes, but it shouldn’t be so sharp as to distract from the vegetables.

When the squash cools, combine with the celery and the tomatoes. Gently fold them all together. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with enough dressing to moisten the lot. Scatter the herbs over the lot and gently toss to coat. Taste, and add more dressing if needed. If using cheese and/or nuts, add at this time.

Use or place in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Chef’s Notes: If you wanted to, you could heat this mélange up in a sauté pan or microwave to top something or serve as a side. Don’t get it too hot or the tomatoes will start to shed all their liquid and the squash will get mushy. You could add in pine nuts in lieu of almonds with good results.

Yield: Around 5 cups, enough to for 4 diners

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen