Creamed Filet Beans and Cucumbers

This is a dish of subtle flavors. The cucumbers lend a touch of bitter to contrast with the sweet rich cream which takes on a touch of caramelization with reduction. Their texture is firm and tender at the same time, while the beans are softer but still have a little bite to them. Bits of almond add a definite crunch to counter the soft onion. This pairs up well with simply cooked fowl or steak. You could cut the beans into 1-inch lengths and then toss this dish with pasta, perhaps adding herbed bread crumbs and cheese to the dish to finish it up. If the idea of cooked cucumbers is too weird for you, simply omit them, knowing the dish will be richer without them.

INGREDIENTS:

¾ pound filet beans, topped and tailed, left whole or cut into 2-inch lengths

1 medium yellow or white onion, sliced into 1/8^th-inch half-moons

1 large cucumber (around 1½-2 cups sliced), peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced into ¼-inch crescents

1 clove garlic, peeled and halved lengthwise

¼ cup dry white wine

½ pint heavy whipping cream

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped

Neutral flavored oil as needed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

¼ cup roasted almonds, coarsely chopped

METHOD:

Get a large (10-12 inches) sauté pan hot over medium heat. Film the bottom well with oil. When oil is hot, add the butter and as soon as it stops foaming, add the garlic and swirl around the pan, turning once or twice until the oil is gently fragrant. Remove the garlic from the pan when it is starting to color, and add the onions. Toss to coat and keep the heat at a temperature where the onions will cook without coloring. Cook until the onions are silky and sweet.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt well. When boiling again, add the beans and cook until they are tender. Drain and keep warm.

While the beans cook, move the onions to the edge of the pan and add the cucumbers. Cook, turning now and again, until they are warm all the way through but still retain some firmness. Transfer the cucumbers to the drained beans. Raise the heat of the pan to high. As soon as it starts to make some noise, add the thyme to pan and then add the wine. Cook until it reduces by half, then pour in ¾ of the cream. Bring it to a boil and stir with a wooden spatula. Season with salt and pepper. The cream will reduce and should pick up a very light shade of caramel under the cream color. Reduce the cream until running a finger through the cream on the spatula leaves a trail that remains. Add the rest of the cream and stir in.

Add the reserved vegetables and stir them in. Gently stir everything while the vegetables heat through and the cream reduces to a sauce that coats the vegetables.

Taste for seasoning, adjust if needed and transfer to a serving vessel. Scatter with the almonds and serve.

Chef’s Notes: The thing here is to not boil the cream so much it separates. If needed, keep the heat at medium-high while reducing the cream. It takes a little longer but is easier to gauge what the cream is doing. The cream should deepen in color and thicken so you can leave slow filling tracks in the pan. The flavor sweetens and takes on a hint of caramelization.

Serves: 4

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen