Creamy Charred Scallion Basil Dressing

Here’s a riff on the more forward flavored Charred Scallion Vinaigrette. The yogurt softens the “charred” flavor, and the basil combines with the charred scallion to yield a flavor reminiscent of a wood-fired pizza with a thin crust nicely charred in spots. Use for drizzling on grilled summer squash, or dipping crudité or hot grilled or cold steamed shrimp.

INGREDIENTS:

1 medium bunch scallions, rootlets and thin tips trimmed

1 large clove garlic, in its skin

¼ cup white balsamic or white wine vinegar*

10-15 tender basil leaves, torn into smaller bits

Salt and pepper

¼-cup olive oil, + more as needed

½-cup labne or thick plain yogurt (preferably not Greek style as it is too tart for this recipe)

METHOD:

Use a towel or paper towel to slip the outside layer of the onions off if they seem slippery or slimy to the touch.

Heat the grill until quite hot. Put a dab of oil on your hands and gently rub the scallions down-just enough to lightly film them.

Put the garlic clove on a cooler section of the grill. Put the onions on, spreading them out a little, so the whites are over the hottest part of the grill and the greens are out of that area. Char the onions all over, allowing the greens to blacken somewhat, but try to keep them from turning ashen and gray. If need be, hang them off the edge of the grill. Allow the whites to char, blackening over much of the outside, but still retaining juiciness inside. If they are cooking quickly, bunch them up so they steam a little. This will slow the charring and allow the onions to cook through rather than just burn. Don’t forget about the garlic! Be sure to turn it at least once. Cook the garlic clove so the skin blisters and the flesh inside the jacket feels soft, but not so much that it dries out.

Remove the garlic when done, then the onions. Peel the garlic and drop into a strong blender. Cut the scallion whites from the greens, then cut the greens into 1-inch lengths, discarding the burnt ends, and add to the blender. Roll the whites between paper towels to remove any flaky charred bits, and slice into ¼-inch lengths. Reserve the whites. Pack the greens and garlic down. Add half the whites. Season with salt and a fair amount of pepper. Add the vinegar, put the lid on, and start the blender on low. Raise the speed a click at a time until the ingredients are spinning freely. If they are not wanting to move, add a tablespoon more of vinegar to get things moving. Once everything is spinning, let it go on high for 1-2 minutes, then add the torn basil. Start to drizzle in the oil through the top. Add all the oil slowly. Add the remaining scallion whites and pulse a few times to chop them coarsely. Add the yogurt and blend in. If the dressing is thin, turn on and drizzle in more oil or yogurt until desired thickness reached.

Taste for balance and seasoning, and adjust if needed. Transfer to a jar and keep cold until needed. Will keep for around five days in the refrigerator.

Chef’s Notes:

Each batch will be a little different regarding how much oil or vinegar you need due to the varying sizes of the scallions and each bunch. Once you have done this, it is easy to figure out what you need. *You could sub in lemon juice, or some lemon juice with wine or rice vinegar for a different, slightly more rustic profile. Use lemon juice and add mint for a Middle-Eastern bent.

Yield: 1 to 1½ cups

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen