The cabbage is rendered tender but still crunchy by salt-wilting it, then it is gently warmed in a sauté pan with a mélange of soft cooked leeks and green garlic. This method brings out the sweetness of the cabbage which works well with the sweetness of the alliums and makes a great foil to the silkiness of the leeks and garlic.
INGREDIENTS:
1 small red cabbage, or 6 cups, cut into 1 inch squares 4-6 green garlic, white and palest green parts, split lengthwise and sliced on a steep bias into 1/8th x 1 inch strips, washed and drained, ¼ greens reserved 2-3 medium leeks, white and palest green parts, split and sliced across into 1/8th x 1 inch strips, washed and drained, ¼ cup greens reserved 1 teaspoon fresh oregano, small leaves preferred, chopped ¾ cup light favored vegetable stock ¼ cup (or as needed) white wine, such as verdelho or Grenache Blanc Salt as needed (Around 2 tablespoons), Diamond Crystal kosher preferred Grape seed or olive oil (mild flavored) as needed 2 tablespoons butter, cut into pea-sized bits and kept cold Pepper to tasteMETHOD:
In a large non-reactive bowl, sprinkle the cabbage with salt and toss to spread throughout the cabbage. Gently at first, begin massaging the cabbage with the fingertips, then continue a little more vigorously. You can keep working up in strength until you can squeeze liquid out of the cabbage. This squeezing will give a softer cabbage with a “squeaky” crunch to it. This allows for less cooking time while giving a tender vegetable that still tastes more like a slaw than cooked cabbage.
Allow to soften 20 minutes to an hour, or until the cabbage is softened but still crunchy, and has a “squeak” to it when you chew it. Rinse it well of any salt and then dry it in a colander or on a towel.
While the cabbage softens, heat a 3 quart chef’s pan or sauteuse over medium heat and film it liberally with oil. When the oil is hot, add the leeks and toss to coat. Sauté until clear and softening. Add the green garlic and season lightly with salt and pepper. Toss to mix and cook gently, lowering the heat if needed to prevent burning, until the ingredients are soft and a little caramelized. Season with a little of the fresh oregano.
While alliums cook, heat the stock gently and add the greens from the leeks and garlic. Simmer until reduced to ½ cup. Strain and return to the pan, keep warm.
Add the wine to the alliums and cook down until almost gone. Make a well in the center of the alliums and add the warm vegetable stock. Raise the heat a little to simmer the stock, the add a few “peas” of butter at a time, swirling the pan or whisking in the butter, adding more butter a few bits at a time just as the first go into suspension. Do this gently so the sauce does not separate. Once all the butter is incorporated, add the cabbage and heat gently, turning the lot with tongs to mix the ingredients together and coat everything with sauce.
Season the lot with a little pepper and some more oregano. Mix in, then taste for salt, adding a little to the dish if needed to bring out the sweetness of the cabbage. Serve hot.
Chef’s Notes:
This dish would be nice with the addition of some grains such as farro, spelt, or barley. A great way to use up some left-overs. Some diced mushrooms would be good, as would some carrots cut into largish pieces. This dish could accompany grilled pork, braised chicken, or roast Portobello mushrooms.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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