Dark Vegetable Stock

This stock is used in the same way you would use a dark chicken stock or other meat stock. It works well as a base for sauces and soups, and if you are feeling under the weather it is nice for when you don’t want to actually eat, but want some nutrition. It is really nice heated up with some fresh ginger in it. In meat stocks, the agent that thickens it is gelatin. In vegetables, the equivalent is pectin. By charring the onions and sautéing the rest of the vegetables, the pectin is catalyzed and so more readily available to the stock. Konbu* is a type of kelp. Seaweeds are used commercially as a thickener in many things, from toothpaste to ice cream, and is used that way here. It helps add a “density” and texture to the stock that usually happens from proteins in meats. Konbu, as well as mushrooms, have the “umami” flavors meat would usually provide, and they also contain glutamic acid, (the precursor of MSG. MSG works sort of like a taste bud dilator, and is actually derived from nature. It is when people distill it and use it as if it were salt that problems occur.) which help boost the flavor of the stock. While this stock can be reduced down and will thicken somewhat, it will not get as dense as a beef stock or rich chicken stock. Also, as you reduce the dark vegetable stock, it will get sweeter, so watch out. The stock takes a while, but is worth doing. Do some other kitchen stuff like make soffritto and pesto while this cooks. And be diligent in your skimming of the stock as it makes a brighter and cleaner flavored stock. If you do not have a large enough stockpot, cut the recipe in half, except for the garlic and konbu.

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

Split onions across the center (not through the root) and char cut side and skin over open flame, grill, under broiler, or in a pan. Cook until cut side is blackened and skin is well charred. Allow onions to cool enough to handle without hurting yourself and scrape away the char. The back of a paring knife works well. This process caramelizes the sugars in the onion and brings out the pectin (natural vegetable equivalents to gelatin), and will provide color to the stock.

Peel carrots, rutabagas, turnips, and parsnips.

Cut the carrots, parsnips, celery, and leeks into ¼ inch slices.

Halve the rutabagas and turnips horizontally, then quarter each half.

Roughly chop the mushrooms.

Slice the head of garlic in half horizontally (across the cloves).

Cut the surface of the onions in a cross-hatch, but do not cut all the way through. Just enough to expose the inside of the onion to the water.

Heat a large stockpot (around 3 gallons, or more) over medium heat. When hot, film the bottom with oil. Sauté mushrooms until soft and aromatic. Add the leeks until they turn “clear”. Add oil as you go if needed to prevent sticking and burning, but use as little as possible. Add the carrots and parsnips and cook until they brown and begin to caramelize. Add the rutabagas and turnips and color just a little. Add the celery and cook for a minute or two. Add the garlic and onions and stir in.

Fill the pot with cold water to cover the vegetables. The water should be half the level of the vegetables higher than the vegetables. Bring to a boil and skim off all fats and scum on the surface. Continue to check as the temperature rises and be sure to skim all along. Different proteins coagulate at different temperatures, and you want to get them as they rise or they will make for a bitter stock. Skim until no more scum surfaces.

Turn heat down to simmer and add the rest of the ingredients.

With a lid set ajar, simmer stock gently for 3 to 4 hours. Taste the stock. If it tastes thin, continue to simmer. If it tastes robust, turn off and allow to cool. When cool, strain into clean pot (or other containers) and chill. Discard vegetables.

After stock has chilled, check surface for fats an skim if necessary using a butter knife or paper towel.

At this point, the stock may be frozen, or returned to the stove and reduced further to concentrate flavors. I recommend doing both.

Stock will keep in the freeze for 3 months if covered closely with plastic wrap, 4-5 days in the refrigerator.

Chef’s Notes:

*Konbu, or Dashi-konbu, is a kelp that is appears in a lot of Japanese dishes. It is perfect for boosting the flavor of vegetable stocks and for adding a “mouth-feel” to the stock. It is available in Japanese markets, health food stores, and even some grocery stores. In Watsonville, I recommend Yamashita Market on Union Street.

Do not attempt to use hot water as a shortcut when making stocks. You are taking the time already, take all of it. Different proteins coagulate at different temperatures, and you want them to float up to the surface where you can skim them. They are bitter, and if you dump the vegetables into hot water, certain proteins will be locked into the vegetables and will flavor your stock.

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen