French Lentils with Fennel and Red Spring Onions 2 Ways, and Mustard Greens

By French lentils I refer to the ones that used to be grown in Puy, France and were known as Lentille de Puy, but are now grown all over. I still think the Puy lentils are better, but the others are still excellent. This lentil holds its shape and has a nice meaty texture and flavor. The fennel and onions are cooked with the lentils and separately so you have two textures and the flavors differ as well.

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups French lentils picked and rinsed

4-5 red spring onions, greens removed and reserved, half quartered lengthwise and sliced finely, the rest halved lengthwise and sliced diagonally ½-inch long

2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks, core removed, leaving just enough to hold it together, 1 bulb cut into 1/8^th-inch dice, the other cut into ¼-inch dice

1 bunch mustard greens, cut into 1×2 inch bits, washed and dried well

2 cloves garlic, minced finely

¼ teaspoon fennel seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves chopped*

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped

½ cup dry red wine**

1-2 tablespoons, or as needed, red wine vinegar**

Olive oil as needed

Salt and pepper to taste

Water as needed

METHOD:

Heat a 3 quart pot over medium heat. Film generously with oil and when hot, add the 1/8^th inch cut fennel to the pot. When it is translucent, add the finely sliced onion, the garlic, fennel seeds (if using), and a pinch of salt and some pepper, and a pinch of chopped thyme. Stir together and cook until the vegetables have cooked down to an amorphous fragrant mass in the pot bottom.

Add the lentils to the pot and stir to mix with the vegetables. Add the wine and cook down 75%. Add water to top by at least 2-inches and bring to a boil. Once it boils, skim any foam/scum that accumulates on the surface. Lower heat to a simmer and cook until lentils are cooked through but retain a discrete shape and texture. This should take around 25-30 minutes. Add water if needed to keep lentils just submerged. Season with salt and pepper after 15 minutes.

After the lentils have cooked 15 minutes, heat a 10-inch sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, film well with oil and heat oil until it shivers. Add the fennel and cook 4-5 minutes, until just translucent and getting a touch of color. Add the onion slices and stir to coat with oil. Cook just until the fennel and onion are no longer raw, but retain some bite to them. Season with salt and pepper and remove to a bowl.

While the fennel and onion cook, slice a ½ cup or so of the onion tops very finely and reserve.

Make sure there is a little oil in the pan. Add if needed, and when hot, add the mustard greens, season with salt and pepper and sauté to wilt. If they give off a lot of liquid, drain from the pan. Add the fennel/onion mixture and taste for seasoning. Correct if needed.

When the lentils are cooked through and flavorful, check the liquid level. If there is a lot of liquid, turn up the heat and boil off liquid until there is only an inch or two in the pot bottom. Add the fennel/onion/mustard mixture and gently stir in. Season the lot with thyme, a bunch of the parsley, salt, and pepper. Drizzle with vinegar and stir in. Taste for balance and adjust as needed. When lentils taste done-full flavored and with a soft but slightly chewy texture, drizzle with a good olive oil, scatter with the green onion top slices, and serve.

Chef’s Notes: Depending on time of year and what dish is accompanying it, you can change the herbs and wine. If you use a white wine, try some marjoram with the thyme. Using a heavier red wine and serving red meat or garlicky sausages? Add some rosemary. You can also use dry white wines as well. **If you change flavor profiles us something like white balsamic vinegar, or white wine vinegar, and white wine.

Serves: 4

Source: Chef Andrew W Cohen