Italian “Salsa” (Pico de Gallo style mix of tomato, summer squash, scallions, peppers, and basil)

This is pretty much just what it says, a typical pico de gallo salsa, but made with summer squash rather than cucumbers, and scallions stand in for white or yellow onions, and mild sweet Gypsy peppers replace the typical jalapeño. Basil and lemon replace the cilantro and lime, making this an “alternate dimension” salsa fresca. If you like it hot, add a spicy chili or two or scatter some pizza-house chili flakes in.

INGREDIENTS:

3-4 medium tomatoes, firm but ripe and flavorful-halved at the equator and seeded into a sieve set over a non-reactive bowl, then cut into ¼ inch dice

2-4 (enough to yield 2 cups) summer squash-different colors are great- cleaned and cut into ¼ inch or slightly smaller dice

1 heaping cup scallion whites, trimmed and cleaned, cut into 1/8^th inch rounds (if scallions are wide diameter, split down the length)

1 heaping cup Gypsy peppers cut into ¼ inch dice*

10-15 medium tender basil leaves, stem removed, halved lengthwise, stacked, and cross cut into very fine slivers with your sharpest knife

Salt as needed-Diamond Crystal Kosher is perfect for this recipe

Pepper if desired

Olive oil as needed

1-2 lemons for juice

1 pinch dried chili flakes (like you find in a pizzeria), or jarred hot Italian chilies to taste minced, or 1 or 2 minced jalapeños if you want some heat

METHOD:

In a non-reactive bowl, toss the summer squash with scattering of salt. Allow to sit 10-15 minutes, then rinse and dry well using a salad spinner, or a towel) put the squash into the towel and whirl it windmill-like to expedite the drying process. Return to the bowl (cleaned of all salt and dried) and drizzle with lemon juice. Toss to evenly coat the squash, then drizzle with a little olive oil and toss.

Add the onions and peppers and toss to combine. Add the tomatoes, and any juice that accumulated in the bowl when you seeded the tomatoes and diced them. Toss gently to mix. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and add chili now if you are going to use it, and fold in and mix lemon and tomato juices. Taste for flavor and balance, remembering you will still be adding olive oil and basil. Add more lemon if needed and mix in, remembering the lemon is there to spark the subtle flavors of the squash and to act as a preservative to the vegetables, but too much and lemon flavor will dominate, plus the acid will cause the vegetables to start breaking down quickly. Once you have the lemon juice in that you want, add pepper if using, then drizzle with oil. Combine with everything else, then scatter the just-cut basil over the salsa and mix in. Taste, and maybe add just a pinch of salt. Serve or refrigerate until needed. Keeps 2-4 days.

Chef’s Notes: * If the peppers are green and seem to be lacking flavor, try oiling them a little and grilling or dry sautéing them with just the oil you rubbed on. The charring will lend the peppers a very nice flavor. This salsa is good scattered on thin crust pizzas, stuffed into whole fish and roasted, tossed with pasta, or used in lasagna. Serve with carta di musica (thin bread/crackers that resemble sheet music) instead of tortilla chips. Toss with farro or fregula. Take this in a Mid-East direction by adding za’atar and mint instead of basil. Serve with flat breads or under grilled fish or kebabs.

Yield: 4-5 cups

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen