Lamb neck can come as slices or chunks cut lengthwise and split. This is what I prefer. Although bony, the meat of the neck is very flavorful and is wonderful for braises and tagines. This recipe yields meat that is almost falling off the bone. The flavors can easily be varied, as can the vegetables. See the Chef’s Notes at the end for variations. Although the recipe seems long, it isn’t really, and once you’ve done it, it is easily done again. This is one of those dishes where the Ben-Riner mandolin knocks the time down to minutes.
INGREDIENTS: 1½ – 2 pound lamb neck (I use chunks rather than slices) 1 medium to large fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed and saved, split through the root, remove the core. 3 branches celery, cleaned, leaves and ends removed 1 medium to large brown onion, halved through root and peeled 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and de-germed, minced 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 4 sprigs fresh savory, leaves stripped and chopped. If you can’t find savory, use an equal amount of marjoram or half as much rosemary instead 1-2 cups light stock, lamb jus, or water as needed Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste Olive oil as needed
EQUIPMENT:
1 medium sized, 3-4 inch deep oven-proof pan that has a tight fitting lid. Pan should be just big enough to hold riblets without much overlap, but they should be fairly tightly packed.
METHOD:
Preheat oven to 325°F. If you have a mandolin this is the time to use it. Very finely slice fennel crosswise. Do the same with any thick stalks, and mince enough fronds to yield 3-4 tablespoons. Finely slice the celery branches across the length. Finely slice onion into half-moons. Season the neck pieces well with salt and pepper. Heat pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add enough oil to lightly film the pan bottom. When oil is hot (not smoking, mind you, just rippling on the surface), add the neck pieces. Cook to brown well, then turn when the first side is browned. When browned all over, remove pan from heat and remove neck pieces to paper towels, and blot excess fat. Drain oil from pan and return to heat. Add enough oil to coat pan bottom and get the oil hot. Add onions and cook to lightly brown. Add fennel and more oil if needed. Cook to wilt, being careful not to let the fennel brown much. Add the celery and cook long to soften.
Continue cooking, softening the vegetables. Be careful not to burn them. Add a little water if it seems the pan is too hot or the vegetables are not softening, covering the pan to steam them right after adding the water. When the vegetables are lightly browned and tender (around 10 minutes), add the minced garlic and sauté until fragrant. Add fennel seed if using, the savory, and half the fennel fronds. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in and cook a moment. Turn up the heat. Scrape the pan bottom to de-glaze, getting all the “bits” stuck to the bottom. Add the neck pieces back to the pan and add stock or water to come about halfway up the neck pieces and bring to a boil. As soon as the pot boils, cover and put in pre-heated oven.
Cook 1½-2 hours until meat is almost falling off the bones. (Check every half hour to ensure there is liquid in the pan) When neck bits are tender, remove them to a serving dish. Add the remaining fennel fronds and stir in. At this point, you can just pour the cooking liquid and vegetables onto the neck pieces, or you can puree to make a smooth sauce.
If you wish to puree, it is easiest to use a stick mixer and just do it right in the pan. Otherwise, add the contents to a blender (Not more than 2/3rds full!) and put on the top, cover the top with a thick towel, and start on lowest setting and work up slowly to puree. (This is important. I have seen hot liquid spray out of a blender onto walls and chefs when started at higher speeds!)
Pour sauce over neck pieces and serve.
Chef’s Notes and Variations:
If you have some pastis, such as Pernod, Ricard, or even Ouzo, add an ounce or two before the water and cook until almost gone. To further amplify the fennel flavors and add more green to the sauce, use some fresh lovage. Instead of savory and fennel seed, use cumin, cinnamon, and a little ginger and turmeric for a mid-east/North African flavor, or use curry for Indian. Add some fresh or use a little canned diced tomato and some of the tomato liquid in lieu of some of the water, with carrots. Slice carrots very thin if you intend to puree the sauce so they will break down easily.
SERVES: 4
SOURCE: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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