My take on a classic. I think the lemon brightens the dish considerably. Yeah, I know, the dish has cream, but if you consider that you are only eating a couple tablespoons at a time, and it is on vegetables, it really isn’t so much. Reducing cream for the sauce is quicker than making a roux for béchamel, and doesn’t use any butter, so you come out ahead I’d say. This cream sauce would go brilliantly with peas.
INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch of spinach, large stems removed and then washed 2-3 shallots, peeled and finely diced, or ½ medium onion, peeled and finely diced 1 juicy lemon, preferably Meyer, cut in half 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced salt and pepper to taste ½ pint heavy cream Butter or grapeseed (or other neutral flavored) oil as needed, whichever you prefer
METHOD:
Heat a 10 inch skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add just barely enough oil or butter to film the bottom.
When this is hot, add the spinach and turn in the butter to coat, and sauté until wilted. Season with salt and pepper and toss to mix.
Use tongs to remove the spinach to a strainer and allow to drain. As soon as feasible, squeeze to remove extra moisture. Use you hands or roll the spinach in paper towels.
While the spinach drains, add a little butter or oil to the pan, heat it up, then add the shallots. Cook until translucent and fragrant. Season with salt and pepper, and then add the thyme. Toss to mix.
Add the cream to the pan and bring to a boil. Be careful it does not boil over-if it looks like it wants to, move the pan off the heat. Lower the heat so the cream simmers vigorously. Squeeze some of the juice from one half the lemon into the cream, catching the seeds in a strainer or your hand. Give a gentle stir and taste. If it seems to need more lemon, add a little at a time until you get the flavor you want.
While the cream reduces, chop the spinach finely. If you have some, squeeze some lemon juice onto the spinach.
When the cream is starting to thicken, add the spinach into the pan, and stir gently to mix it into the sauce. Continue cooking until the cream is thickened and coating the spinach lightly.
Taste for seasoning, and for lemon. The flavor should be bright, but not really tart. If it is not lemony enough, squeeze lemon juice over the whole dish and stir to amalgamate.
The final dish should be sweet and earthy at the same time, with a clean note from the spinach. Try to avoid reducing the cream too much or it will seem cloying.
Serve hot.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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