You could do this with the vegetarian dashi, but the smoky aroma and depth of flavor from the hana-katsuo really make this dish. Although it is not quite the same, and it will tint the dish red, you could use smoked paprika if you wish to go vegetarian. Use this dish as a base for seared fish or roasted King Oyster mushrooms. You could also use this as a base for noodles/pasta.
INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch mei-quin, each head halved lengthwise
2 medium leeks, cut into ¼ inch thick rounds
4-5 medium carrots, cleaned and sliced diagonally ¼ inch thick
4 cups dashi (see recipe)
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, peeled and halved lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste (use a large flake salt such as Murray River or Maldon. Better yet, use smoked Maldon salt to layer flavors)
Grapeseed oil as needed
1 tablespoon butter
METHOD:
Heat a pot of water just large enough to hold the carrots to boiling. Salt the water well and add the carrots. Blanch for 1-2 minutes, until bright and just turning tender. Drain and reserve the carrots.
Heat the dashi with the garlic clove and the thyme sprigs in a pot until simmering. Lower heat to a gentle simmer.
Heat a large tightly-lidded sauteuse (straight sided skillet) or frying pan (10-inches at least) over medium heat. Film well with oil, and when the oil is hot, add the mei-quin, cut sides down. Cook gently just until the cut surface picks up a little color. Turn gently and cook the rounded surface 1-2 minutes to give a little color. Remove from the pan and keep in a warm place.
Add oil if the pan is dry. There should be a light film on the pan bottom. Add the leek rounds and cook gently2 minutes. Turn over and add the carrots. Strain and add the dashi to the leeks and carrots and bring to a gentle simmer. Put the lid on and cook until the carrots are tender but not soft. Add the mei quin, cut sides down, replace the lid, and cook 3-5 minutes. Check the mei quin for tenderness. It should be cook through, tender, but not mushy. This is a knife and fork type dish, so bear this in mind when tasting the mei quin for doneness. If it needs more time return the lid to the pan and cook a couple minutes more. If it is done, use a slotted spoon to place on a platter cut side up. Remove the carrots and leeks and scatter around the mei quin. Any liquid should be left behind in the pan.
Turn the heat to high and reduce the pan liquid to 1/2 to 1/3rd cup. Remove from the heat and add the butter, swirling to melt the butter and emulsify it into the dashi. Drizzle this over vegetables, then season lightly with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
Chef’s Notes: You could add mushrooms, sugar snap peas, snow peas, or English peas all to good effect. Use with fish, seafood, or poached or baked chicken.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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