This is a riff on something from a restaurant. Light in body, but with plenty of flavor.
INGREDIENTS:
4 heads or more of mei quin choi 8-12 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered (reserve stems for something else) 2 carrots, sliced thinly or use a peeler to make wide strips 2-3 small spring onions, green and white separated, whites split and cut on the bias 1/8th inch, greens sliced very thinly on a long diagonal 1 pound fresh Chinese style egg noodle, cooked according to package 12 cups light vegetable or chicken stock 1 1/14 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced lengthwise into 4-5 slices 1-2 teaspoons soy sauce -OPTIONAL- 1/8th teaspoon Chinese 5-Spice or 1 star anise, 2 cloves, 2 allspice berries, 3-4 Szechwan peppercorns, ½ inch piece of stick cinnamon tied into a sachet Salt and pepper to taste Oil if neededMETHOD:
Heat the stock over medium heat. When hot, smack the ginger slices with the flat of a knife and add to the stock. If using the spices, add them now. Cook gently to flavor 10-15 minutes. If using the sachet with the whole spices, start tasting after 5 minutes to ensure the flavor stays subtle. Be diligent, this stock should be lightly flavored, and over-steeping these spices can lead to an acrid tongue numbing bitter brew. Remove sachet and ginger when flavor is apparent but not strong. Stir in 1 teaspoon of soy sauce and taste. Add more if needed.
While stock heats and seasons, cut the mei quin through the root ends into quarters. Set aside.
If you wish, you can sauté the shiitake mushrooms. The texture will be more familiar to Westerners, and the flavor will be more prevalent with a meatier component to it. Adding the mushrooms raw to the soup will give a lighter flavor with a sort of “slippery” texture to them that is treasured in oriental cuisine. For this recipe, not sautéing is ideal, but if you prefer, just sauté the mushrooms in as little oil as possible until done. Blot on paper towels when done to absorb any excess oil.
Once the stock is seasoned, strain out the ginger and spice sachet, and add the mushrooms, onion whites, and carrots. Increase heat to maintain gentle rolling simmer and simmer until mushrooms are almost tender. Add the mei quin quarters and any stray stalks, along with the noodles. Simmer 5 minutes, or just long enough so the mei quin is no longer raw. The noodles should heat up in the same amount of time it takes to cook the greens through.
Evenly divide the ingredients between 4 bowls, scatter the thin slice onion greens over the tops and serve hot.
Chef’s Notes:
If you wish, you could add some shrimp to the soup when you add the mushrooms, or if you have leftover chicken you could add shreds of it when you add the noodles. You could also add ½ inch cubes of extra firm tofu a little before the mei quin.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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