This is loosely based around a traditional Japanese treatment of greens. The stems of shiitakes are frequently too tough to eat, but still contain plenty of flavor. Using the stems for a “stock” base keeps them from going to waste and boosts the flavor of the dish. See Chef’s Notes for more about this.
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound/6-8 cups braising mix, washed, drained, but with a little moisture still clinging is fine 16 shiitake mushrooms, around 1½ inches wide, stems removed and reserved, quartered 1 leek, white and palest green part only, cut into 2½ inch long sections. Split these down the length and cut into ¼ inch wide strips and rinse well -OR- ½ large white or yellow onion cut through the root, then cut once more from root to tip, and then into thin half-moons 2 cloves garlic, sliced very thinly 1½x¾ inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons sake or dry sherry 3 teaspoons sugar or agave nectar 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 cups light vegetable stock or water Grapeseed or other neutral flavored oil as neededMETHOD:
Slice finely or smash the shiitake mushroom stems.
Heat a small saucepan over medium heat. Film the pan with oil, and when hot, add the shiitake stems. Sauté until fragrant and coloring a little, but be careful not to scorch them. Add the garlic and ginger, and sauté until the garlic has softened a little and is aromatic. Add the sake, sugar, and soy and bring to a boil. Add the stock or water, stir well, and return to a boil. Once this stock has boiled, lower the heat to a bare simmer for 5-15 minutes, being careful not to reduce it much.
Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, liberally film the pan with oil, and then add the leeks or onions, and toss to coat. Cook until soft and picking up a little color.
If the pan is fairly dry, add a little more oil. Add the mushrooms, tossing to coat with the oil. Cook until the shiitake are softened and fragrant, with the cut surfaces showing a creamy color rather than white. Add a quarter cup of the stock, straining it before adding. Cook until the mushrooms have absorbed all the stock.
Add the greens, filling the pan but not piling them up. Use tongs to turn the greens and onions, adding more greens as they wilt, until all the greens are in the pan.
Add 1 cup of strained stock, and cook until the stock has reduced 80%. If the greens are tender, remove them to a serving bowl and reduce the stock by 80%. If they are still chewier than you would like, leave them in the pot while cooking the sauce down. If you would like more sauce, or a more intense flavor, add the rest of the strained stock and cook it down to the desired viscosity. Reserve any unused stock for another use.
Toss the greens with the sauce and serve hot.
Chef’s Notes:
The shiitake stock is great to have on hand for adding flavor to all sorts of things. Use it on greens or as part of a sauce for something like pork. It is also great for quick meals like ramen or other noodles. Freeze it in ice cubes or small tubs for convenience. Anytime you use shiitake mushrooms you should use the stems for a stock like this.
If you like a more intense flavor, mince half the garlic and ginger and sauté this after sautéing the mushrooms. Be careful not to burn it, then proceed with the recipe.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
If you enjoyed this article, please consider sharing it!
