Pesto

I use a mortar and pestle for my pesto. I feel the flavors are brighter and the pesto holds its color and flavor longer. The pestle releases all the basil juices into the mortar so there is more basil aroma. Food processors heat the pesto and “cook” the basil, which helps the discoloration. Food processor blades dull quickly and rather than making a clean cut to the basil they tear it, speeding oxidization. I give the food processor version of this recipe further down. If using the food processor, I recommend doing a double batch as a single recipe is hard to get right in a standard sized processor bowl. Also, I just like the process of using the mortar and pestle as I find it meditative. I am more engaged with the food, the sound of the nuts grinding, and especially the smell as the basil gives up its juices. I like pesto for a lot more than just pasta. I mix it into farro or other whole grains, or toss vegetables with it. I also love it as a smear on sandwiches.

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

In a large mortar, add the salt and five of the basil leaves. Grind them firmly but gently with a circular motion against the sides and bottom of the mortar until they start to break down. Keep adding a few leaves at a time until they are all in, but not thoroughly destroyed.

Add the garlic, and mash down on it directly with the pestle to crush it. Then proceed with the grinding.

When the garlic is pulverized and the juices have been amalgamated into the basil, add the nuts a few at a time and crush them up before adding the next few.

When they are all in, grind to a uniform consistency.

Sprinkle in the cheese and mix everything together well.

Begin adding the olive oil in a steady stream and mixing with the pestle to achieve a creamy consistency. Add enough oil so the pesto moves a bit like a sauce, rather than being a stiff paste. The color should be bright and the ingredients well amalgamated.

Season to taste with a little pepper and salt if needed.

Store in a jar in the refrigerator with a layer of oil covering the surface of the pesto to prevent oxidization.

Food Processor Version:

For the food processor, you want to keep in mind that things heat up in there. You can cook the basil, turn nuts to nut butter, and you can melt cheese.

Fit the processor with the blade.

Crush the garlic with the flat of the knife and toss into the processor. Process finely.

Add the nuts and pulse to just break up.

Add the basil, and pulse to shred.

Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, then puree briefly (30 seconds).

Check the contents of the bowl to see if the pesto is fine enough. If not, puree just long enough to achieve the correct consistency. Add more oil if necessary to keep things moving.

When the nuts and basil have reached the right consistency, add the cheese, another tablespoon of oil and pulse to combine all the ingredients. Check for consistency and add more oil if needed. Stirring in the oil with a spatula is the way to go here.

Season with salt and pepper as needed and store in the refrigerator as in the mortar and pestle version.

Chef’s Tips and Notes:

If using the processor for heat sensitive herbs, I chill the bowl and blade in the freezer and chill the olive oil as well.

*The germ is the little green shoot that forms in the center of the garlic clove. This can cause indigestion in many people, from mild to extreme, especially once it has begun to grow. It can also add bitterness to the dish. It is only a matter of moments to remove it, so be sure to do so. Jars of commercial minced garlic are usually processed with the germ in, so I avoid them like the plague. Next time someone complains of heartburn from pizza, you’ll know why…