In classic French cuisine, a pave is a cube or squarish block of food resembling old French paving stones. This potato gratin uses little liquid and is cooked under weight so it is compact. This is a two day affair (for the best results, but could be hurried along. See Notes and Tips) and takes a little work, but tastes great and is a nice addition to a fancy meal. Once made, the second day work to get it on the table goes quickly.
INGREDIENTS:
3 leeks, trimmed of most of the green parts, split, rinsed, and finely sliced ¼ cup white wine 5-6 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced as thinly as possible lengthwise on a mandolin ½ pint heavy cream Butter as needed Grapeseed oil as needed Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced Special Equipment: 1 8x8x3 inch baking pan Foil 1 8×8 in cardboard square, wrapped in several layers of foil, or a second pan the same size 1 oven-proof weight (like a brick) smaller than the inside dimensions of the baking panMETHOD:
Heat a pan over medium heat, and when hot, add some oil to the pan. When it is hot, add the leeks and season with salt and pepper and some thyme. Add the white wine and cook until evaporated. Reduce heat to medium-low or low. Cook slowly, trying not to let them color, until meltingly tender.
Heat the oven to 375°F. While the leeks cook, lightly oil the inside of the baking pan. Line it with foil so the foil is smooth, leaving a little over lap to help remove the pave later. Carefully butter the foil well, and set aside. Butter the foil wrapped square or the bottom of the second pan. When slicing the potatoes, slice them directly into a non-reactive bowl into which you have poured the cream. When the leeks are done, remove from the heat and let cool a little. Taste for seasoning and season if needed. Place the buttered pan in front of you. Remove potato slices from the cream, shaking off excess. Carefully cover the pan bottom with a layer of potatoes, then lay in more potatoes until half are used, seasoning with salt, pepper, and thyme as you go. Once half the potatoes are layered in, add the leeks, and smooth them down into an even layer. Lay in potatoes until almost all are used. Carefully lay in the last layer so it forms a nice even layer. Cover with the foil wrapped square or buttered pan, and place the weight on the center of the top. Place the pan in the center of the oven and bake for one hour. After one hour, the potatoes should be tender. If you wish, check by removing the weight and cover and carefully poke with a toothpick. It should slide in easily without resistance. When the potatoes are done, be sure they are covered well and the weight is in the center. Allow to cool on a rack, still weighted, for two hours. Refrigerate at least 5 hours, or overnight, so the pave sets up firmly.
When ready to serve, heat the oven to 400°F. Bring the potatoes to room temperature, and use the foil overlap to pull the potatoes from the pan. Peel the foil away, and cut the potatoes into 2 inch by 2 inch or 4 inch by 4 inch squares (2×2 are much easier to work with). Heat a large skillet over medium heat, and add enough oil to film the pan. When hot, add the pave squares without crowding them, to the pan. Cook for 3-5 minutes until the surfaces are golden, then carefully turn and brown the other side. When brown, place the squares in an oven safe pan and heat in the oven 10 minutes or until heated through. Serve hot.
Chef’s Notes and Tips:
You can use other things for the filling. Try mincing and sautéing mushrooms, onions, or a combination. You could use a mixture of broccoli and cauliflower also. Although the recipe is long, once you have done it is pretty simple. Since most of the work is done ahead of time, and the finishing is fairly easy, this can be an elegant dish for a fancy dinner party where you need to pay attention to other dishes just before service.
Serves: 4-8
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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