This sauce will seem creamy, but the texture comes from the pureed green garlic and leek or onion, not from any dairy product. Use this on fish and seafood, chicken, or tofu. It can be stirred into soups or pots of grains or beans to add depth of flavor as well. When the green garlic season is over, you can still use this recipe, just use blanched or roasted garlic cloves instead. This sauce can be used hot or cold.
INGREDIENTS: 4 green garlic shafts, white and palest green part only, sliced 1/8th inch thick 1 cup of leek (white only) or peeled brown onion, sliced 1/8th inch thick 2 pale center ribs of celery, around ½ cup, sliced 1/8th inch thick Grapeseed or other neutral flavored oil, as needed 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Salt and pepper to taste ½ tablespoon fresh thyme, minced fine 2 ounces white wine water as neededMETHOD:
Have a couple cups of cool water close to the stove. Heat a 2 quart heavy-bottomed saucepan or chef’s pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, film the pan with oil and wait for it to heat up. When oil is hot, add a tablespoon of butter, and when it stops foaming add the green garlic and toss to coat with the oil/butter. Cook, stirring to prevent burning, but allow the garlic to brown. When the garlic gets browned, add a shot of water to the pan and stir it around, scraping the bottom to lift any of the “fond” (the brown bits on the pan bottom) back into the garlic. Do this a few times until the garlic smells roasted and has a nice light tobacco color. Once the green garlic has picked up color and a good aroma, lower the heat to low and add the leeks or onion and toss to coat with oil and mix with the garlic. Add oil if the pan is dry. Season the vegetables with salt and pepper and add the thyme. Cook until the leeks or onion are translucent and softened. Add the white wine and cook until pretty much evaporated. Add a ½ cup of water and gently simmer until the vegetables are soft, adding water if necessary. Transfer the contents of the pan to a blender, add the second tablespoon of butter, and put the lid on. Cover the top of the blender with a towel* and start on the lowest speed, working up to puree. Add a little hot water if needed to achieve a sauce-like consistency. If the sauce has cooled, warm in a pan over low heat before serving if using hot.
Use the sauce hot or allow to cool for use cold. If using cold, taste before use to see if it needs a little more salt or pepper. (Foods that taste great hot may taste a little flat when served cold.)
Chef’s Notes and Tips:
*When blending hot ingredients, be sure not to fill the blender more than half full and cover the top, and always start on the lowest speed. I have seen hot liquids blast out of blenders onto walls and chefs when started at high speed. Dangerous AND messy!
If you wanted, you could split the green garlic leeks and oil them up and then grill them before making this dish instead of sautéing them. Just grill them until they have good flavor, and then roll them in foil and allow them to steam. This may be enough to thoroughly cook them, but if not, just chop them 1/8th inch thick and sauté with the onion. If this sauce sounds appealing but there is no green garlic, you can use bulb garlic for a variation. If the grill is on, throw 6-10 good sized cloves of unpeeled garlic on the grill and cook on the edge of the grill until colored and getting soft inside. Peel and use these in the sauce, cooking with the onions, or blanch the same number of peeled garlic cloves. To do this, place the cloves in a small pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Boil 20-30 seconds, then drain and repeat twice more. This will soften the garlic both in flavor intensity and texture. Add the garlic after the onions/leeks have softened and before the wine is added.
Serves: Makes enough sauce for at least four portions.
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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