Simple, but the flavors play so well together. The slow cooking of the carrots really sweetens them and brings out the “carrot-ness” of them, while the Allium Topping contrasts with funk and top notes. This topping goes well with other things such as steak, salmon, potatoes braised with tomatoes and pimenton de la vera.
INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch purple carrots, tops removed, scrubbed and, if necessary, trimmed so they are the roughly the same thickness, but left whole as much as possible
2 spring onions, greens very thinly sliced on a diagonal, whites (or reds) sliced 1/8th inch thin
1 leek, white only, quartered length-wise, sliced thinly
1-2 green garlic, halved lengthwise, sliced thinly
Salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon fresh marjoram or oregano, chopped (fresh only)
A little lemon juice or vinegar if needed
Olive oil as needed
METHOD:
Heat the oven to 400°. Rub the carrots all over with olive oil and place on a sheet pan, leaving a little space between them, and if any are cut, place the cut side up. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and place in the center or upper portion of the oven. Cook 30-45 minutes until the carrots are tender, the colors have deepened, and they are tender all the way through. A little browning where they contact the pan is fine, but for this dish try not to char them.
While the carrots cook, make the topping. In a non-reactive bowl, mix all the alliums and break them up with your fingers. Add the herbs and mix in. In a thin steady stream, pour in oil while gently whisking or stirring with a wooden spatula. After 2-3 ounces, stop the oil and season with a little salt and some pepper, then give a good whisking to emulsify the oil with the liquid the onion gives off. Start whisking and drizzling again. You will find the contents of the bowl thicken a bit and the oil will turn a little paler as the allium juices mix in. When the topping gets a little thick and a spoonful will hold its shape, that should be enough oil. Taste for balance of flavors-the oil should not stand out nor should the topping taste like olive oil studded with onion and be really slick/oily, nor should the topping taste like just bits of various alliums moistened with oil. There should be a synergy. Taste the topping, then decide if you want to add lemon juice or even a little vinegar. Use Meyer lemons, or red wine or white wine vinegar if you want a little hit of brightness and tart. This would be a nice option with the carrots.
When the carrots are done, place on a platter and spoon the topping over them, and serve while carrots are hot for more contrast.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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