Roasting the tomatoes concentrates the tomato sweetness, while also adding a haunting roasted background note. The basil oil is a great finish, and you could use Thai basil for the oil which would be great also. If you don’t have that handy, the mint crema (yogurt and mint) will work fine. You could also drizzle with some balsamic vinegar, especially if you have some of the thick aged stuff stashed.
INGREDIENTS:
1½-2 pounds tomatoes (any size you wish, just use tomatoes of the same color) stems removed, tomatoes halved through the stem 1 white or yellow onion, cut into fine dice 3 cloves garlic 2 sprigs marjoram or thyme Salt and pepper to taste Optional-A pinch of sugar if you wish (the sugar calls out to the natural sugars in the tomatoes and helps to bring them out. Also, the sugar will caramelize and add a deeper flavor to the soup. But just a pinch.) Olive oil as needed (use a light flavored one, or a neutral flavored oil) 2-3 cups vegetable stock, or vegetable stock and tomato liquor (see recipe on website), or other stock or water Basil Oil (see site for recipe) For Crema: 1/2 cup labne or other dense yogurt 1-2 tablespoons fresh mint (or basil, or chives) finely sliced, then finely sliced the other way (chopping will turn the mint of basil flavor muddy. If using chives, only slice across) 1 teaspoon lemon juice or white balsamic vinegar Salt and pepper to tasteMETHOD:
Heat the oven to 325°F. Line a sheet pan with foil and lightly oil it, or put in a non-reactive rack with a tight pattern and lightly oil it.
Place the unpeeled garlic cloves onto a piece of foil and place on a shelf in the oven other than the center one, where the tomatoes go. Cook until garlic is tender inside the jackets, around 20-25 minutes. Remove when tender, and squeeze out the paste or peel the cloves. Reserve.
If you are using a mix of tomato sizes, cut them so they are roughly the same size as the smaller tomato halves. Put them in a non-reactive bowl and drizzle with olive oil and toss gently to coat. Arrange of pan or rack, skin down. Season with salt and pepper and scatter half the herbs over the tomatoes. If using the sugar, scatter it over the tomatoes now. Place in the center of the oven and roast, checking and turning every 15 minutes. If a largish quantity of liquid forms in the pan, pour it off or use a basting bulb or syringe to remove and save it. Cook the tomatoes until they have dried out a bit, are wrinkly, and fragrant. If there is a little blackening/charring along the cut edges, perfect. After anywhere from 45 minutes to 1½ hours, the tomatoes should be done. Not completely desiccated, but not wet either.
When the tomatoes are close to being done, heat a sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, film with oil. Heat oil and add the onions. Season with a little salt and pepper and toss to coat with the oil. Cook until onions are “clear”, then add the herbs and the garlic. Sauté gently to soften, but not color the onions. When ready, scrape the contents into a soup pot. Use a little stock or water to deglaze the pan, scarping the pan bottom, and add the deglacer (the remaining liquid and bits from deglazing the pan) to the soup pot.
Add the tomatoes to the pot and toss with the onions. Add the stock, tomato liquor, whatever you are using, plus whatever liquid came off the tomatoes, into the soup pot and heat until it is hot, but do not boil! Once hot, use a wand mixer to puree the ingredients, or use a blender. If using a blender, only fill ½ to ¾ full and place a towel over the top before starting. The hot liquid can expand and spray all over-both messy and very painful! Puree the soup, then run it through a strainer to get out any bits of skin. Serve hot with drizzles of basil oil, old balsamic vinegar, and or a dollop of herb crema.
Herb Crema; Place the labne in a small non-reactive bowl. Add the acid to the bowl and stir in to thin the labne. Scatter the herbs over and mix in without smashing the herbs too much. Refrigerate until needed.
Chef’s Notes: You could add a dice of cold tomato to the bowl before adding the soup, or serve with Tomato Bread (see recipe)
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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