Romanesco is often described as a cross between cauliflower and broccoli, but I think it has its own personality. It is denser than either of the others, and is more resistant to developing the brassica “funk” that the other two get when cooked too long in water. I like the denser texture which allows Romanesco to caramelize well, and I really enjoy the fractal look of the florets.
INGREDIENTS:
4 cups Romanesco florets, trimmed to around 1½ inches each 3 Purplette onions or 1 medium red, yellow, or white onion, skinned and halved through the root and then sliced ¼ inch top to bottom following the curve of the onion (This is called a Lyonnaise cut) 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped Oil as needed 1 cup bread crumbs 1 tablespoon fresh Italian parsley, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh herbs such as thyme, oregano, rosemary, or mint, chopped (Use whatever herbs you wish, solo or in combination) Salt and pepper to taste ½ cup (or more) cheese such as Mozzarella, Gruyere, Romano, or Parmesan (If using mozzarella, use more. A gooey cheese should be used in enough quantity to add some chew to the dish, and Mozzarella is so mild)
METHOD:
Heat the oven to 425°F.
Lightly oil an oven-proof gratin or casserole dish.
Bring a pot of water large enough to hold all the Romanesco to a boil. Salt the water liberally. When the water is boiling, add the Romanesco and cook for 2-5 minutes. Cook just long enough for the Romanesco to turn a brighter shade of green and to just lose its raw quality. Bite into one-it should be crisp tender. Immediately drain and rinse in cold water to arrest the cooking.
Drain the vegetable and toss into a bowl with the onion and garlic. Drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat the vegetables well with the oil. They should be shiny, but not dripping. Season with salt and pepper.
Put the vegetables into the prepared dish and cook in the center of the oven for 20 minutes. They should be golden brown and caramelized in some places, and should be tender.
When the Romanesco reaches this point, toss the bread crumbs with just enough oil to moisten them, around 1-2 tablespoons. Add the herbs and season with salt and pepper and toss well to combine thoroughly. Sprinkle the vegetables with the cheese if using Mozzarella or Gruyere, then add the breadcrumbs. If using Romano or Parmesan, add the cheese to the bread crumbs and sprinkle over the gratin. Cook another 10 minutes or until the breadcrumbs are golden and the cheese melted.
Allow to cook 5 minutes and serve.
Chef’s Notes:
You could cut some potatoes, such as Désirées, into the same size as the Romanesco and blanch it until just tender and cook it with the rest of the vegetables. The potato will need to blanch a little longer, so throw them in first and give them 4 minutes or so before adding the Romanesco, then just follow the recipe.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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