The Silk Robe refers to the silky texture leeks, fennel, and carrots take on when cooked slowly. You can grill the salmon, or roast it high or low temperature as you wish, or cook it entirely in a pan on the stovetop. Each method gives a different but delicious result. Higher temps yield a crispy part of the fish, where a slow and low cooking results in a supple and silky fish that matches the vegetable topping. Pan searing gives a crisp top deck and low oven heat yields silky flesh to meld with the topping. Because there are so few ingredients here, and cooking is so simple, be sure to use only the best ingredients. You could use halibut or other thick bodied flaky fish for this recipe, or even slowly poached chicken.
INGREDIENTS:
1 head fennel, trimmed of stalks and fronds, with enough core left to hold it together, shaved very thinly
2-3 leeks, white only, cut into 3/16ths inch wide ribbons, washed and dried
1-2 carrots, peeled, and then using the peeler again, peeled into very thin, narrow strips, held in ice-water (Optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
Neutral flavored oil as needed
2 tablespoons butter cut into pea-sized bits, + more as needed
½ cup dry white wine, such as Grenache Blanc, Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc, Rousanne, or Marsanne
½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped finely
4 pieces salmon, cut from the filet, 6-8 ounces each, skinned and boned
METHOD:
Heat the oven to 325°F. Place a shelf in the middle of the oven.
Heat a 10-inch/2-quart pan over medium-low heat. Film well with oil, and heat through. When hot, add the leeks and fennel and cook gently to wilt.
Once the leeks and fennel are wilted, cook until clear, then make a well in the center of the vegetables and add the carrots. Oil a little if needed and toss all the vegetables to mix and add half the thyme and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender/silky. Add the wine and cook until reduced by 80%. Remove from heat.
When the carrots get added, heat a sauté pan large enough to hold the salmon over medium-high heat. When the pan is good and hot, film lightly with oil, season the salmon and place, skin-side up, into the hot pan. Cook for 3-4 minutes, so you can see the fish where it contacts the pan turning opaque and white. At this point the fish should have cooked 1/8th inch in. See if you can lift the fish easily without it sticking/tearing. Is it getting golden and crusty? Perfect. If not, or it is still really sticking, give a couple minutes more. When golden on the part in contact with the pan, transfer to the oven. At this point, depending on how thick the fish is, it should only be a few minutes- 6-12 minutes –until it is done. (See Basic Fish Cookery on website for what you need to know to cook perfect fish.) When the thin end of the fish will flake with a little pressure from your finger and the thick part feels firm but neither rubbery nor really firm, it should be done. Remove from the oven and use a spatula to remove the fish and flip onto serving plate(s). Run a small piece of butter over the crispy part of the fish so it melts and glazes it a little.
When the fish go in the oven, return the leeks/fennel etc. to the hot burner. Get hot all the way through and let the wine start to reduce again. When there is very little left, push the vegetables to the rim of the pan and add the 2 tablespoons butter into the pan and swirl the pan so it melts and mixes into the remaining wine. Once the butter emulsifies, with the wine, mix in all the vegetables and the rest of the thyme. Set aside off the heat, but keep hot.
The salmon should be ready to come out at this point. Plate the salmon as above, then use a large spoon or tongs to drape the silky vegetables over the salmon, and drizzle with any remaining sauce in the pan. Serve hot.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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