Yes, yes, it sounds weird. Everyone tells me so. And then they try it. And really, really like it. Sautéed cucumber is milder than zucchini with deeper flavor. If watched carefully, it maintains a crunchiness that is wonderful. The trick is to cook it just until it heats through and is turning translucent. This dish is a wonderful combination that goes well with fish or chicken, or as a foil to something richer like brisket braised in porcini stock.
INGREDIENTS:
1 large/2 medium firm Kirby* cucumbers, peeled and split lengthwise, ends discarded and scooped clear of seeds, cut into just shy of ¼-inch crescents
½ pound Romano beans, topped and tailed and cut into 1-inch lengths
½ tablespoon, heaping, fresh dill snipped with scissors or roughly cut with a very sharp dill (dill that is crushed, as with a dull knife, takes on a muddy flavor quickly, whereas dill that is cut with a sharp edge retains it’s clean fresh flavor)
¼ cup heaping of blanched or roasted almonds, coarsely chopped
Salt and pepper as needed
Mild olive oil as needed
1 tablespoon butter
½ a lemon for squeezing juice as needed
METHOD:
Heat a pot of water large enough to cover the beans with at least 2 inches of water. Once boiling, salt it liberally, and add the beans. Cook until the beans are just becoming tender. Drain well.
While the beans blanch, heat a large heavy bottomed pan over medium heat. When you drain the beans, film the pan well with oil. When the oil is hot, add the beans and toss to coat them with the oil. Sauté, tossing to keep the beans from burning, until they are starting to speckle with color.
Add the cucumbers to the pan and stir them to the bottom of the pan with a wooden spatula. If the pan is fairly dry, drizzle with some oil, and then begin tossing the ingredients. You want the cucumbers to heat through and turn translucent, but not pick up any color. Gently cook to achieve this.
Once the cucumbers are hot and turning clear, season aggressively with salt and gently with pepper. Taste-the salt should add depth and spark to the cucumber. Squeeze lemon juice over the vegetables and toss to mix in. Taste-is there enough lemon? It should be there to enhance the flavors but not dominate. Add more if needed.
Add the almonds to the pan and toss to mix in.
Add the butter, swirling to prevent burning, then toss to coat.
Scatter with the dill and mix in. Taste the vegetables and adjust seasoning as needed. If things taste a little flat, try adding a pinch of salt. If things taste flat but there is enough salt, try lemon juice, or a pinch of sugar. A hint of sugar can often snap a dish of more subtle or slightly bitter elements into perfect focus.
Serve right away.
Chef’s Notes: *You can use English or Japanese cucumbers if you wish, but you still should peel them as the skin can bring too much bitterness. Taste a slice to determine if you wish to seed or not. You do not want the wetness from the seeds or the cucumber will steam and get floppy and possibly bitter.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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