Another one from my “You can cook that?!” file. To many, the idea of cooking cucumbers seems radical, but to me it just seemed right. They are, after all, related to squash. Try these when you are looking for something light. They sometimes have a tinge of bitterness to them that makes them a good foil for things like grilled salmon or poached chicken. Accompanying flavors should be things like dill, tarragon, mint, or a little lemon zest. Avoid more pungent herbs like thyme, rosemary, and oregano. Marjoram can work if you use a light hand. This recipe is very simple, so it is about timing and balance to show off the cucumber flavor. I have other cucumber recipes that sauté the cucumbers until browned a little with onions and are seasoned more aggressively with garlic and herbs, but I love this one for it’s subtlety and ease.
INGREDIENTS:
2 slicing cucumbers, peeled in strips if the skin is tender, otherwise remove it all 1 tablespoon each of butter and neutral flavored oil such as grapeseed ½ ounce of white wine such as Riesling or other light wine 2 teaspoons of 1 fresh herb such as dill, mint, tarragon, or flat leaf parsley 1 pinch of salt and maybe a little fresh ground pepper
METHOD:
Slice the cucumber lengthwise and use a narrow spoon to scoop out the seeds. Slice the cucumber into ¼ inch slices.
Heat a 10 inch skillet over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the oil and butter and allow to melt.
When the butter stops foaming, add the cucumbers and toss to coat.
Add the wine and cook down to evaporate, tossing gently to keep the cucumbers from browning. If the heat seems high, reduce it to medium-low. Cook the cucumbers gently, just until the turn pale and lose their raw edge, becoming tender.
Season lightly with salt and a very little amount of pepper, then add the herb of choice, and toss to combine thoroughly. Cook a moment more to wake up the flavors of the herbs, then serve.
Chef’s Notes and Tips:
If you want to add some depth to the dish, fine dice half an onion and cook it gently in the butter/oil mix until cooked but not browned at all, or use 3 finely diced shallots. If using shallots, add the wine to the shallots rather than the cucumbers to soften the flavor of them. You could add some blanched lemon zest to the pan just before adding the cucumbers-about a half teaspoon, say-and use 1 tablespoon of lemon juice instead of wine, or use a little sweet white wine.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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