Seared Mei Quin with Pepper Carrot “Condiment”

“Condiment” is used for lack of any better word, but I suppose salsa, jam, or chutney could be used as well. It is, essentially, sweet vegetables cooked until melting, to boost the flavors of earthy late season peppers. This is used as a topping for seared and quickly braised mei quin. Use as a side dish, add ground pork, tofu, or bits of leftover chicken and serve with rice for a main. A mandolin is very helpful with this recipe.

INGREDIENTS:

1 bunch mei quin, bottoms trimmed, halved (or quartered if very large) lengthwise

½ white or yellow onion, thinly sliced into ½ moons

2-3 medium carrots, cut into fine threads (spaghetti size) 1½ inches long

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 x ½ inch piece peeled ginger, cut into very fine threads (capellini size)

2 cups seeded peppers cut into ¼ inch squares or 1/8th x 1 inch threads

¼ teaspoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar, or as needed

½ teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed in a mortar or coarsely ground in a mill

1/8^th teaspoon cinnamon, or to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Grapeseed oil as needed

-Optional- ¼ cup cilantro leaves if you have it

METHOD:

Heat a 2 quart chef’s pan or sauce pot over medium heat. Film well with oil and when hot, add the carrots and onions. Cook until they are tender and just starting to color. Add the peppers and cook so they become soft and pick up some blistering and brown on the edges.

Lower heat to low and wait for pan to cool a bit.

Make a well in the center, and be sure there is a decent film of oil there. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until soft and fragrant. Add the coriander seeds and cinnamon and cook until fragrant. Season with salt and pepper. Add the vinegar and soy sauce and cook 30 seconds. Add 2 tablespoons water and stir the pot.

Put a lid on the pan and cook until the ingredients have softened and the flavors have melded, around 8-10 minutes. Taste for balance-you might need to add more vinegar, or if the carrots and onions are not sweet and the peppers are bitter, you might want to add a pinch of sugar. If you do, go very light as this is a “condiment” and not a jam, and the mei quin has a subtle flavor. Salt and pepper can do a lot for balance as well. When the condiment is tender but still has some texture, and the flavor is balanced, set aside and keep warm.

As the condiment is coming together, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the condiment is done, the pan should be good and hot. Film well with oil, and when it is hot, place the mei quin, flat sliced sides down in the pan. Cook until the mei quin is golden and crisped, then turn over. Cook until the rounded sides show coloring and signs of softening. Season with salt and pepper, add 2-3 ounces of water and cover the pan. Allow to steam 2 minutes, then check to see if the mei quin is done. It should be crisp/tender-cooked through but not raw with a little bite to it still. To check-pull off a branch and bite or use a thin bladed knife to poke it. The blade should go in with a very little resistance.

Remove when done to plates or a platter. The condiment should be hot or warm. If you wish to use cilantro, add it now and toss the condiment to mix it in. Spoon condiment over mei quin and serve.

Serves: 4

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen