A very simple sauce. That means you need good tomatoes, and it is very important to cook the garlic slowly so it will caramelize, not burn. Mexican, or Korintje, cinnamon will give a lovely floral flavor, and the recipe is written with this in mind. If you use another type, start with less as they will provide more of a red-hots candy flavor which can easily overwhelm the dish. Use this sauce anywhere from delicate pastas to fish, chicken, or goat, or on vegetables such as escarole or greens, or with a mélange of summer vegetables a lá ratatouille.
INGREDIENTS:
1 to 1¼ pounds ripe, sweet tomatoes, peeled and seeded, chopped finely
4-6 cloves garlic, de-germed, sliced very thinly
Salt and pepper
¼ teaspoon Mexican or Korintje cinnamon, or as needed*
Sugar as needed (based on sweetness of tomatoes), not more than a teaspoon probably
Olive oil as needed-use a mild one so the tomato and garlic flavors get a chance to sing. I like Arbosana oil, of Spanish origin and buttery without being very peppery at all, for this dish
Optional: If desired-½ teaspoon crumbled or minced marjoram or oregano
METHOD:
Heat a large sauté or sauteuse pan (10-12 inches) over medium-low heat. When the pan is hot, add enough oil to liberally cover the pan bottom, around 4-5 tablespoons.
When the oil starts to shiver, scatter the garlic over the oil, being sure to get each slice separated from one another. Cook garlic slowly so it colors and caramelizes, but does not get very dark nor scorch. The aroma should be sweetly garlicky without a hint of scorch or burn.
Add tomatoes to the pan, and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the cinnamon evenly over the dish and toss to combine. If using the herbs, add half of them with the cinnamon, reserving the rest for finishing at the end. Cook over medium heat, stirring and tossing, chopping the tomatoes with the end of the wooden spatula you are using to stir with, until most of the liquid is gone and the tomatoes are becoming homogenous. Taste for balance. The flavor should be tomatoey without being bitter or aggressively tomatoey. It should be redolent of garlic without being hot or sharp, and the whole should be lightly sweet, enough to remind you that tomatoes are fruits. The sauce should be a little runny still, and not so thick it is mistaken for tomato paste. Taste for balance. Adjust if needed. If the sauce has turned to paste, add water a tablespoon at a time and stir in, cooking a minute or two before trying it. Taste again and adjust flavors. If the sauce is lumpy, and you prefer it smooth (as I do), use a stick blender or stand blender to pureé the sauce. The sauce is now ready to use.
Chef’s Notes: *These cinnamons are light and floral in flavor. The others can taste overwhelmingly of red-hots candy, or be very spicy. If using them, use smaller amounts at a time, working your way up to the flavor you need. Also, remember the flavor will get a bit stronger as it heats. If you store the sauce, cover tightly and put in the frig. Reheat gently to keep the balance of flavors.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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