“Soba” of Summer Squash and Carrot
Soba is a Japanese buckwheat noodle that is like a squared off perciatelli noodle. Although it is served hot, it is probably best known as a cold preparation. Here is a twist on that dish with summer squash and carrots replacing the noodles. Soba is typically dipped into a soy-based sauce that is seasoned based on the weather. Sweeter when it is cold, ginger grated into it when it is hot out. Green onions and sesame seeds almost always. Here the dish is a little different than the traditional. It is dressed lightly with a variant of a Japanese dressing that is used with vegetable salads, and then has the dipping sauce that is traditional with soba as well. Both sauces keep well and have a myriad of uses. You want to use the middle comb of a Ben-Riner for this dish.
INGREDIENTS:
6-8 cups summer squash threads (3-4 large-ish squash) cleaned and ends cut off 2 large-ish carrots, peeled and ends trimmed 1 cup Japanese Style Sesame Dressing v.2 (see recipe) 2 cups Soba Dipping Sauce, or as needed 1-2 cups daikon or radish microgreens/sprouts (broccoli sprouts or mixed salad sprouts work well also) 6-8 green onions, rootlets trimmed, whites sliced straight across very thin, greens sliced paper thin on a bias, kept separate ½ -1 cup nori slivers (use scissors to cut nori-dried seaweed sheets-into 1 inch wider strips the length of the sheet, then cut the strips into 1/8th x 1 inch pieces) 2 inches ginger root, peeled and finely grated Sesame seedsMETHOD:
Bring a large pot of water to boil. Make the dressing and the dipping sauce, and put them both in the freezer to get quite cold, but don’t let them freeze or get icy.
Using the medium comb of you Ben-Riner or mandolin, slice the squash into long strips resembling fat squared off spaghetti. When you get to the seeds, taste a strip to check for bitterness. If the squash is not too bitter, use the whole thing. If it is really bitter, avoid using it. Set squash aside.
Use the mandolin to cut the carrots into strips resembling fat squared off spaghetti and keep separate.
Prepare an ice bath once the water boils and the rest of the prep is done.
Place 1 cup of the dressing into a large non-reactive bowl.
Drop the carrots into the boiling water and count to 20. Check that the carrots are pliable and no longer raw. If not, wait 10 seconds more, then drop in the squash “noodles”. Drain into a large colander and dunk into the ice water to chill the noodles, but not make them completely cold. Drain vigorously and dump the lot into the cold dressing in the large bowl. Toss gently to coat the noodles. Allow to sit 15 minutes to absorb the dressing. Taste a few noodles to see that some of the dressing has permeated the noodle. The noodles should have flavor in them, but not be anywhere near soggy with it. If they are well dressed, drain and shake off excess dressing.
Place equal portions of noodles in deep bowls or plates and scatter sesame seeds over all, then scatter with green onion tops over all. Place a high mound of sprouts in the center of the noodles, then scatter with nori over all, and serve while cold.
Place a bowl of both parts of the green onions on the table, along with a small dish with the grated ginger in a mound or cone. Fill 4 bowls with dipping sauce and distribute. Add onions and ginger to your taste and dip squash soba into the dipping sauce before conveying to your face. Enjoy.
Chef’s Notes:
You can serve this hot if you like. Do not chill the dressing. Warm it gently in the microwave, then quickly blanch the noodles and add to the warmed dressing right away. Proceed as above.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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