The silky texture of escarole always seems at such odds with its bitter flavor. Adding a little sugar and caramelizing it until on the border of burnt both tames and points out the bitter quality of this vegetable, and the addition of sweet/tart fruit and vinegar made from the fruit amplifies this idea. This dish goes well with meats with mild roast chicken or fatty pork chops with a nice crust for textural contrasts. It would also be a nice complement to kasha with braised mushrooms or even fried eggs.
INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch escarole, trimmed, washed (do not completely dry-leftover water will help it cook) and chopped into roughly 1-inch pieces ½ white or yellow onion, diced fine 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced 1-2 Granny Smith apples (or other firm sweet/tart apple) cut into ¼-inch dice 1-2 tablespoons cider vinegar or apple balsamic*, or to taste Pepper to taste** and maybe a little salt if needed Neutral flavored oil as needed 1-2 tablespoons butter for flavor if desired, or instead of oilMETHOD:
Heat a 10-inch sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, add enough oil to film pan well, or use 1 tablespoon butter. When oil is warmed, or butter stops foaming, add the onions and ½ the thyme and toss to coat. Cook until softened and translucent. Remove to a bowl.
Return pan to heat and scatter ½ the sugar into the pan. Allow to cook until it starts to turn brown and gives off the characteristic caramel smell. As soon as the colors hits golden, add a teaspoon of oil or butter and lift the pan off the heat until it mixes with the caramel. Return pan to heat and add half the escarole and the rest of the thyme. Turn it with tongs to coat with the caramel. Wait 30 seconds for some settling, then add the rest of the escarole. Scatter with the rest of the sugar and season with pepper, and then turn to mix in with the rest of the ingredients.
Cook until wilted and silky, adding a few drops of water if the escarole seems to be scorching and sticking.
When escarole is well wilted and silky transfer pan contents to bowl with onions. Film the pen with oil or add more butter. Once hot, add the apples and toss to coat. Cook, tossing to prevent burning, until apple is golden and hot. Do not cook until soft, just hot and colored. At this point, add the onions and escarole to the pan and toss to combine well.
Drizzle with the cider vinegar or apple balsamic to taste, toss to coat, and reduce any pan liquid. Taste and season with a little salt if needed.
Serve hot.
Chef’s Notes: *Apple balsamic is a syrupy vinegar condiment similar to aged balsamic vinegar made from apples. The flavor is apples and balsamic, and the vinegar hit is mild. It is perfect for dishes like this. Find it at cooking shops and well-stocked groceries. **The vinegar in this dish can give the impression of salt, so I do not usually add salt until I have tasted the finished dish. Add a little to season if needed at the end.
If you wish to make this dish a little richer, once browned, add the apples to the bowl with the vegetables and add ¼-cup heavy cream to the pan. Bring to a boil, and reduce until thickened, then add the vegetables back into the pan and, stir to combine, and serve.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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