Grappa is a poor man’s liquor made from leftover seeds and skins from winemaking that became chic a few years ago. No matter what you label it, it is still a powerful and raw spirit. Soaking currants or raisins in it is a traditional Italian use for it that can be found in many dishes. Here it is again. If you do not have grappa, use a good vodka.
INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch Swiss chard, stems and leaves separated, leaves chopped into ½ inch squares and washed, stems cut into ¼ inch squares and washed
1 small/medium brown or white onion cut into ¼ inch dice
2-3 slices thick cut bacon, sliced across into 3/16th inch batons
2-3 tablespoons dried currants or raisins (any color you wish)
¼ cup grappa (or vodka, or even brandy), or as needed
1/3rd cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 teaspoon fresh marjoram or oregano, chopped using your sharpest knife
½ cup merlot, or a similar wine
2 tablespoons high-quality red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil as needed
METHOD:
Put the currants or raisins into a small container and add the grappa (or vodka or brandy) so the grappa comes to the top or just covers the fruit. Stir every so often to push the fruit on the top to the bottom.
Heat a large sauté pan with a lid over medium heat. Add the bacon batons and gently cook until crisp, taking care not to let the bacon burn or the fat get dark. Turn down the heat if needed to ensure this. When the bacon is cooked through and crisp, remove with a slotted spoon or saibashi* to a paper towel to drain. Pour out the fat to a small container and reserve. Wipe out the pan, using something to remove any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan.
Return pan to the heat and film with olive oil, and add a small amount of bacon fat to flavor the oil. Heat up, and then add the onions. Cook just until the onions are “clear”, without taking on any color. At this point, add the chard stems, tossing to coat with oil/fat and mix with the onions. Add more bacon fat if you do not smell it on the vegetables. Sauté gently until the onions are soft and the chard stems are tender. Season with salt and pepper and add half the herbs. Toss to combine and cook 2 minutes.
Drain the currants, reserving the liquid. Add the fruit to the pan and stir in. Add the liquor and warm up, then ignite. While the grappa/vodka/brandy is burning off, stir with a long handled utensil. When the flames die down and the liquid is thickening, add the wine and stir the vegetables to coat with the wine. Simmer to reduce the wine by 80%. Add the vinegar and swirl the pan to incorporate it into the remaining wine. Add the chard and use tongs to turn the chard into the vegetables and vinegar/wine. Place the lid on the pan for 3-4 minutes, just until the chard starts to wilt. Remove the lid and stir the chard around to coat with the pan sauce.
As soon as the chard is no longer raw and is wilting, add the bacon and the pine nuts, and stir in. Cook until the bacon is warmed up and the chard is collapsing. The wine should all evaporated by now, but if not, make a well in the center and allow the wine to cook down/thicken. Add the rest of the herbs, season with salt and pepper and toss all the ingredients one more time.
Serve hot or at room temperature. If served room temperature, taste and consider drizzling with a little red wine vinegar and good olive oil.
Chef’s Notes: *Saibashi are Japanese cooking chopsticks. There are two types; bamboo ones that are much longer than regular chopsticks that are usually attached at the top with string (which keeps them from straying too far from each other or falling into the fryer unless you drop them both), and the much) more expensive, only slightly longer than normal steel ended ones that are quite pointed and seen usually in sushi bars. The bamboo ones are used for frying in tempura restaurants, or in homes all over Japan. Or wherever heat is involved as they do not conduct heat well. The others, which have wood handles and steel ends, are used in sushi bars. The bamboo ones are perfect for handling small bits that you do not wish to break, like the batons of crisp bacon.
Serves: 4
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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