INGREDIENTS:
¼ cup white balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon herbs; such as chervil, oregano, basil, marjoram, or a combination of the above-leaves plucked and chopped with a very sharp knife
1 tablespoon minced shallot
Salt and pepper to taste
1 clove garlic, peeled
¾ cup light flavored olive or neutral flavored oil
METHOD:
Rub a non-reactive bowl with the garlic clove vigorously enough to leave streaks of garlic oil behind. Discard the clove or use for something else. Put the vinegar into the bowl, and add half the herbs, shallot, and the salt and pepper. Allow to macerate 10-15 minutes.
In a slow steady stream, drizzle in the oil, whisking vigorously the entire time until all the oil is emulsified.
Gently fold in the rest of the herbs, taste for seasoning, and adjust if needed.
Will keep 3-5 days before the fresh herbs begin to breakfast.
Yield: 1 cup
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
For this salad, a tender lettuce like Butter or Oakleaf is the perfect contrast to the dense beets and crunchy quickles. If you can’t find small red onions for your quickles, go with shallots instead. Although very simple, this salad is so satisfying with the range of textures and flavors. Also, the beets and quickles can be done days ahead, along with the dressing.
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This dish has an earthy flavor that has sweetness and complexity to it. It can serve as a side dish, a base to a stack of items, or thinned a little it can be a sauce. Formed into quenelles it elevates the lowly beet into something quite elegant. A scattering of tender fresh herbs such as tarragon, basil, or shiso is nice, and chervil seems to work quite well here.
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A classic pairing in cuisine is red beets with tarragon. It makes sense, then, that chervil, with its lighter tarragon/licorice/anise-like flavor would also make a good combo. The sweetness from the carrots and the chervil will bring out the sweet flavor of the beets and accentuate the sweet and bitter qualities of the romaine.
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This dish is pretty simple. The trickiest part is mounting the sauce with butter and not breaking the sauce. This is easily avoided by simply paying attention and pulling the pan from the heat while adding (mounting) the butter, returning it to the heat if the pan cools too much. The sauce is a little tart and goes well with the fish. By not turning the fish before putting it in the oven the fish will develop a very crisp crust on the top, which is a perfect foil to the buttery sauce. White pepper is used in the sauce because it looks better, and the flavor is better suited to the sauce.
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This dressing goes with the Romaine, Roast Beets, and Carrot Thread salad, but will go with roasted beets anytime. This would also be nice on fennel roasted pork loin, grilled salmon, or ground chicken meatballs. With the chervil in it, it is not a dressing that would keep a long time. Use within 3-4 days, although letting it sit a couple hours before using allows time for the chervil flavor to express itself.
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This dish pairs roast carrots, which develop a sweet flavor combined with a rooty depth, with a bright compound butter which features chervil (which has a flavor like tarragon, but lighter) spiked with some Meyer lemon, or not as you choose. The fennel see on the carrots will add layers of flavor to the dish and will support the chervil in the butter. As the fennel seed roasts it will take on a nutty flavor as well.
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This butter will have a light anise/licorice/tarragon flavor to it, and is good for poultry, light meats, fish and seafood, and vegetables. It is perfect for adding to a pan of mussels or shrimp at the end, or slipping frozen slices under the skin of a chicken to be roasted. You can use this butter to make a “buerre blanc” – a sauce of shallots, wine or vinegar, and bits of cold vinegar swirled into a pan to form an emulsification.
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This dish is a starter, or you can place it into a salad for a larger dish. Tobiko is the bright orange or red flying fish roe most often seen on the outside of California rolls. You can get it at Japanese markets and better fish mongers. If it is frozen, that’s fine as that is usually how it is shipped. This recipe only uses a little, so freeze what you won’t use within a few days. Chervil is an herb not used so much in the US, but is loved in France. Think of basil, tarragon, fennel, or anise, only much more delicate and subtle. Here, it brings a nice contrast to the brininess of the tuna and tobiko. A sharp knife is important to the success of this dish, and if you wish, you can freeze the tuna for 10-15 minutes to firm it up before cutting.
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Use this as a salad dressing for slaw, or on shellfish. It is also great on shaved fennel salads.
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Although this is typically made with dry herbs, you could give it a whirl with fresh ones if you wish.
Chervil is an herb not often seen fresh in the US. It is a delicate herb, in structure and flavor. It has a flavor similar to basil, tarragon, and anise, but is far subtler, and there is a bit of an Italian parsley note as well. It lends a pleasant clean and sweet note to the blend that is enhanced by the marjoram. Tarragon adds an earthiness that melds with the chives and parsley, and enhances the anise notes of the chervil. Chives are the bass line of the group, and parsley wraps them all together with its clean, almost sharp, flavor.
Try this fresh if you wish, or dried for the traditional take. This blend goes well with fish, chicken, and vegetables such as summer squash and carrots. It is good added to a beurre blanc at the end, or scattered over grilled lamb meatballs at the end as well.
Chervil and chives are not herbs that do well with long cooking, so wait until the end of a recipe before adding, or add if the cooking time is short or quite gentle.
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Probably the first soup I made. I remember thinking that I should make it because “Vichyssoise” was a funny name for a soup, and it was only much later (15 years?) that I learned that is the name for the cold version that has a dollop of cream added. This is one of those things that are easy to make, and it seems that if you are a person who uses leeks, there is always some in the refrigerator, just as there are always potatoes in the back of the pantry. This is my take on the classic from French cuisine.
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