Currently viewing the tag: "gratin"

The escarole melts into the onions and adds a nice mildly bitter foil to the sweetness of the onions and the yellow fleshed potatoes. You could use cream in lieu of the stock for richer gratin. To make an all-in-one dish, add ham or bacon.

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The Provençal accents here are fennel seeds and a hint of lavender to add a mysterious deep and floral note that pairs well with fennel. Make this with any summer squash you have, just try to cut all the slices the same thickness.

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This gratin is quite simple to assemble, and easier to cook. It can be assembled earlier in the day and then cooked, or you can cook it off and serve it at room temperature or re-heat it. It is even good cold. It makes a great vegetarian sandwich-just smear a soft roll with tapenade and lay in some of this gratin. This gratin is really fun if you have various colors of squash to play with as it yields a nice colorful dish. Although the instructions seem long, they are not really, and once you have done this you will find a hundred variations spring to mind.

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I love gratins. I like to experiment with various ingredients and see how well they go together. Knowing that celeriac and potatoes go well as a mash, I was pretty sure this would work well also. It sure does. This light version of a gratin does not use cream or cheese.

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The pesto is on quotations because you can just toss a handful of basil and garlic into a blender and then add almonds for a quick pesto-ish mélange rather than making a full on batch of pesto. If you wanted to, you could toss in flat leaf parsley with the basil to stretch it, or you can even use pesto from a jar. You would still need to add almonds for the flavor they impart. This is here to use up the last of the season basil you might have in the garden, or in the refrigerator.

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For what it’s worth, gratin refers to the cooking vessel and the way it is used, not just the dish itself. Anything can be cooked “au gratin” and the recipe itself is varied. Potatoes alone, or mixed with other roots such as parsnip, turnip, or onion. Mushrooms, kale, artichoke hearts, olives, all these can go in as well. The dish can be made with or without cheese, with cream, milk, stock, or any combination of these. In summer, I make gratins with vegetables that are “wet” (tomatoes, eggplant, etc.) and the only liquid I use is a little bit of flavorful olive oil. In colder months I make traditional creamy, cheesy gratins with roots and tubers. You can be precise in the way you lay in the ingredients or you can be casual. Bear in mind that the thickness of the cuts, the density of the vegetables, and how tightly packed in the dish everything is can affect the cooking times. This recipe is a variation of a quiche I used to make, and it is named for Denise who likes it so much I can never make enough.

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Depending on the cheese you use, this can be sort of light and cheesy, or you can make it nice and gooey with plenty of chew to it. For the latter, use a mixture of provolone and mozzarella with a little parmesan or romano thrown in for flavor depth. You could also use a sharp cheddar if you wish, and add some bacon if you are feeding carnivores who typically eschew vegetables.

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This gratin is for those who love the flavor of garlic. The nice thing about this is that using the green garlic gives you lots of flavor but leaves the pungent heat behind.

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Crisp sweet-tart apples make a nice foil to the nutty unctuous cauliflower. This is a dish where you want a fixed-blade slicer like the Ben-Riner, or a food processor with a ¼-inch slicer disc.

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This dish was inspired by a recipe from Maria Helms Sinskey. Use this as a side, on toasts as a starter, or to stuff Portobello mushrooms for a light supper.

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This is an all-in-one dish with eggs, vegetables, and grains. It works without the grains, too, but if you make them the night before or have leftovers, it is even easier. Carrots add a sweetness that counters the sometimes almost tannic mineral quality of chard. The eggs are baked “whole”, not mixed in as a batter like a quiche, so the yolks act as a sauce and make for a pretty dish.

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Kind of like mac ‘n’ cheese, but with cauliflower instead of noodles. This would be a good dish to make after entertaining and finding you have a bunch of small bits of cheese. Cheddar and Gruyere are used here for depth of flavor, but other Swiss and Cheddar types would work as well.

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Tastes like a cross between dessert and a vegetable dish. A little sweet, a little savory, and really good.

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This is a fairly quick dish to assemble, especially if you have soffritto on hand. Since much of the flavor for this dish comes from the tomato and basil, be sure to use flavorful tomatoes and fresh basil. Having a spritzer/atomizer for oil makes this dish easier still to make, and I recommend one as it makes it so simple to get just the right amount of oil onto vegetables instead of soaking them. If you do not have one, use a small bowl or plate with some oil and use a brush. Although the instructions seem long, once you have done this it will be a snap the next time. I like basil for this recipe, but if you do not have any to hand, try it with something else such as a tablespoon of marjoram or oregano, or some sage, or whatever strikes your fancy.

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This is a form of gratin that uses a béchamel sauce and includes bread cubes as part of the base. It is a hearty side dish good on cooler nights.

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The longest part of the prep for this dish is cooking the onions for the base. Other than that, this dish comes together quickly. If you have soffritto in the freezer, it is a snap to put together, and it looks as if you fussed for quite a while. If you have different colored tomatoes and/or squashes the dish looks quite festive.

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With summer here, the time is perfect for gratins. Sure, everyone is firing up the grill, but let’s face it-grilled vegetables only hold their appeal for a while, and then you want something with a little more depth of character. All those vegetables that are great on the grill are also great in a gratin. Easy to make, gratins can be made in advance and will keep overnight, and are good hot from the oven, or at room temperature. What’s not to like?

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Romanesco is often described as a cross between cauliflower and broccoli, but I think it has its own personality. It is denser than either of the others, and is more resistant to developing the brassica “funk” that the other two get when cooked too long in water. I like the denser texture which allows Romanesco to caramelize well, and I really enjoy the fractal look of the florets.

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Here’s a riff on Pommes Boulangère, the classic French potato dish named for the fact that it was cooked in the bread baker’s oven after all the bread was done and the ovens were cooling. Desiree potatoes are called for in the recipe, but really any waxy potato will do such as Yukon Golds, Yellow Finns, Romanze, Sangre, etc. I think adding the chard brightens the dish and the potatoes can mellow the earthiness sometimes found in chard. This is another dish for your Ben-Riner or mandolin.

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This could be made with a béchamel, but I always think it is easier to use cream, and let’s face it, cream just tastes better. This could be done with white cauliflower, but I think the yellow cauliflower looks good enrobed in the seasoned and reduced cream.

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INGREDIENTS:
1 bunch of green onions, greens and whites separated, whites sliced ¼ inch, greens sliced 1/8th inch or finer
3 green garlic stalks, white only, split lengthwise, rinsed, and sliced finely
¼ cup cilantro stems, sliced finely and well washed
1 bunch chard, ribs and leaves separated, ribs washed and cut into
¼ inch bits, leaves stacked, rolled and cut ½ inch and washed

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In classic French cuisine, a pave is a cube or squarish block of food resembling old French paving stones. This potato gratin uses little liquid and is cooked under weight so it is compact. This is a two day affair (for the best results, but could be hurried along. See Notes and Tips) and takes a little work, but tastes great and is a nice addition to a fancy meal. Once made, the second day work to get it on the table goes quickly.

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INGREDIENTS:

2 Tbsp butter
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
¼ cup  chopped fresh parsley
1 Tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 pounds shelling beans, fresh out of their shell
2 tsp  melted butter
1 Tbsp lemon juice

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This is a dish based on one I learned at Chez Panisse. The hardest part of the dish is peeling the squash.* Once that is done it goes together in a snap. I tend to go with savory seasonings, but you could use cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and orange juice as seasoning as well. These spices would go fine with garlic and pepper. Speaking of garlic, you can use a good quality garlic powder instead of the fresh if you wish.

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Potato Onion Gratin (without cream)

Gratin refers to the cooking vessel as well as the method of cooking, and the dish itself. So, slipping some vegetables into a gratin dish, cooking them in the oven so the top gets browned and crisp (gratinéed), yields a gratin. I do lots of them in the summer with things like tomato, eggplant, summer squash, and onions, but I love a potato gratin year-round. When it is warmer, I prefer to make them just with stock rather than using dairy such as cream, and I skip the cheese unless I grate some on in the last few minutes. This recipe gives an option for this.

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This is adapted from something I worked on at Chez Panisse.

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INGREDIENTS:

1 bunch chard (Rainbow, red, or Swiss)
1 medium brown onion
2 cloves garlic, peeled and de-germed
2 ounces cream sherry or Marsala
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
2 teaspoons fresh thyme (or other herb of your choice)
½ cup homemade bread crumbs (or store bought)

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