This stock first occurred one spring after market when I opened the refrigerator and found it full of whole and partial bits of green garlic and young garlic, leeks, scallions and spring onions as well as the tops I had saved, not to mention the halves of white and yellow onions. Everything was in great shape, but I needed room for the next batch of produce. So, I made stock. This recipe is sized down for the average kitchen.
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These are inspired by Indian koftas, but they are more of a croquette in that they use egg and flour, not chickpea flour as many kofta recipes do. The bell pepper usage resulted from having halves in the refrigerator, and I think cooling bell peppers, mint, and yogurt make a wonderful contrast to the hot zucchini fritters. Serve these hot or room temperature, but be sure the yogurt is cold.
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Serve this in bowls with slices of cheese toast. Add leftover chicken or grains such as farro or barley, or Israeli couscous.
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There is almost always a jar of tapenade in the refrigerator, just as there should be one in yours. It is like a magic wand in the kitchen, able to take disparate ingredients and turn them into a trip to far off lands. To get the right kind of sear on this dish, you want to use your biggest pan, like a 14-incher. If the vegetables are too close they will just steam and get mushy, so if you do not have a big pan, do this in a couple pans or batches.
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This dressing was made for a salad of butter lettuces and broccoli carrot quickles and avocado, but would be nice with Mediterranean inflected foods. Try it on grilled lamb or swordfish, or with grilled and peeled peppers and onions. Be sure to use a good quality vinegar as there is nowhere for a bad one to hide, and there are a lot of less than good wine vinegars out there.
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Pistachio oil is pricey, but is a wonderful indulgence. It works magic in dressings, lentils, and grains, and is a nice way to finish scallops or fish. It matches well with orange and other citrus. Look for smaller bottles and keep it in the refrigerator. If you do not have pistachio oil, just use a plain red wine vinaigrette.
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Persillade is classic of French cuisine that ranges from ridiculously simple to fairly simple. At its most basic it is a cup of flat leaf parsley and a minced garlic clove, chopped and combined. It can be thrown into a dish right at the end to warm it and bring out the aroma of the garlic and parsley, or it can be stirred into soups. Some are made with olive oil (the south of France) or butter (the north). Garlic versus shallots, some have lemon zest added, or juice. You can find them with other herbs as well. This version is simple and is combined with blanched turnip tops to sauce the turnips.
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This is a dish to be made at the start of the New Year when the new olive oil has just been bottled. The carrots are cooked simply and act as a sweet and earthy foil to the bright and peppery pungent oil. The oil is drizzled in at the end as a seasoning with a few drops of vinegar and some parsley. If you do not have any olio nuovo, a bright and bold Tuscan oil would serve. This is one of those dishes where the combination is greater than the parts, and there is nowhere for inferior ingredients to hide, so fresh carrots, fresh oil, and good vinegar are all a must.
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Although this salad is known to many as Israeli salad, it seems it is more commonly called Arab salad in Israel. No matter what it is called, a variant of this exists in most places throughout the Middle East, and in Israel- a country of immigrants-there are hundreds of versions all based on family heritage or personal preference.
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Here, farro stands in for the rice in a little chewier, earthier rendition of risotto. Farrotto may actually predate risotto. This iteration, with the chard and plenty of garlic is quite down-to-earth, but you can use the same technique with mushrooms or lemon zest and juice to make it lighter flavored.
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This dish is a medley of concentrated late-summer flavors. The fresh tomatoes are cooked down to concentrate their sweetness, and the polenta is made from stock made from corn cobs which really brightens its flavor.
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An all-vegetable and grain stuffing makes this lighter than the usual version with ground beef stuffing. This is a great way to use up left-over grains such as farro, bulgur, rice, or quinoa.
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This dressing is about the tomato, so only do this when you have tomatoes with plenty of flavor. This is also a pretty dressing, especially when you have different colors of tomatoes. This dressing has a nice combination of fruitiness, acid, and sweetness, and is great on fish, grilled shrimp, chicken, or mixed with arugula and tossed onto grilled slabs of chewy bread. It is good on salads, too.
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This is a flavorful mélange that is not wet enough to be a soup, but not dry, either. Although you could easily add more liquid for a soup or cook it dry as a side dish.
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There are many dishes where the greens of things such radishes, turnips, and carrots are combined with used as a sauce for the roots they are attached to. Here is a recipe that has a powerfully “green” flavor to it similar to that of nettles, and is colorful as well. Be sure to wash the leaves in several changes of water as they seem to hold sand and fine particles well.
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This is called a salad in the Moroccan sense of the word. In Moroccan cuisine, salads are dishes of vegetables that are prepared, cooked or raw, and eaten at the beginning and throughout a meal. You are not likely to be served a leafy green salad there. So, that is why this is a “salad”. It could be a side-dish, condiment, or even a topping for something like grilled fish or chicken.
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Parsley and potatoes are a classic combination. Usually, it seems the parley is just there for garnish, but when done well the parsley actually tastes good and enhances the sweetness and earthiness of the potatoes. This technique for cooking potatoes helps season the potatoes as well as ensures a higher temperature which renders more of the starches giving a creamier potato. Serve this on a “plate” of Little Gem lettuces for added texture and flavor contrast.
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This is a part of classic cuisine that adds lots of wonderful flavor without fuss. It is also a great “go to” item for when you are pressed for time but still want something flavorful on the plate. It can be used as a base for a quick pan sauce or beurre blanc as well. Make this and store it in the freezer–it is like money in the bank. This butter takes advantage of the fresh mineral and herbaceous quality of parsley. As this is a simple recipe, it relies on the best ingredients for success. This compound butter is a classic for topping fish and steaks, but is good for a quick pasta, shrimp, or with vegetables.
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Romanesco is often described as a cross between cauliflower and broccoli, but I think it has its own personality. It is denser than either of the others, and is more resistant to developing the brassica “funk” that the other two get when cooked too long in water. I like the denser texture which allows Romanesco to caramelize well, and I really enjoy the fractal look of the florets.
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No meat in this, but the presentation, the thin slices, and the fact that it is raw make the connection in my mind. This is one of those times you want a fixed blade slicer. It can be done with a knife, but it will be a challenge. Cousa and zucchini are ideal for this dish, and Pattypan will work as well, but I think crooknecks are best left for other preparations. This dish lends itself to variations, from really simple to simple but elegant. The dressing can be scattered as separate ingredients or made into a vinaigrette, the garnish can be skipped or be complex-it’s all up to what you want at the time.
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