I use a mortar and pestle for my pesto. I feel the flavors are brighter and the pesto holds its color and flavor longer. The pestle releases all the basil juices into the mortar so there is more basil aroma. Food processors heat the pesto and “cook” the basil, which helps the discoloration. Food processor blades dull quickly and rather than making a clean cut to the basil they tear it, speeding oxidization. I give the food processor version of this recipe further down. If using the food processor, I recommend doing a double batch as a single recipe is hard to get right in a standard sized processor bowl. Also, I just like the process of using the mortar and pestle as I find it meditative. I am more engaged with the food, the sound of the nuts grinding, and especially the smell as the basil gives up its juices. I like pesto for a lot more than just pasta. I mix it into farro or other whole grains, or toss vegetables with it. I also love it as a smear on sandwiches.
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This is a mix of herbs, alliums, and citrus inspired by the classic Italian “salsa verde” made of lemon zest, capers, herbs, and garlic-at the very least-and is used in the same way. Top fish, chicken, meat, or tofu with it, use as a marinade for tofu, or use as a dip. It is really good with hot or cold shrimp. Whatever you do with it, use a sharp knife when making it. You want to cut the ingredients, not mash them. This way the individual flavors are bright and stand out, instead of everything forming a muddy mélange over-ridden with onion and garlic.
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INGREDIENTS:
8 cup home-made chicken stock2 stems green garlic chopped and sautéed
2 Tbs. butter 1 Tbs. freshly-squeezed lemon juice
Salt to taste
Freshly-ground black pepper to taste
½ to 1 cup cooked fava beans
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Vinaigrettes are usually thought of as oil and vinegar dressing. In actuality, vinaigrettes can be used as a sauce, especially for fish and poultry, on sandwiches, as a marinade, or even as a pasta sauce. Vinaigrettes are great poured over roasted vegetables such as potatoes, parsnips, and beets, while still warm so the flavors are absorbed. This makes an excellent salad, and is, in fact, how German potato salad is made.
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This dish is about the sauce, really. Green onions usually wind up in a support role, but here they get to shine and their flavor comes through. This sauce is based on a classic French Sauce Soubise, which is an onion-flavored béchamel-heavier and much more labor intensive. This sauce, by the way, is very popular in the classes I teach to middle-schoolers. Quick and easy, try it with chicken or salmon. It would work with hearty grains such as wheat berries or with braised firm tofu. A combination of grains, mushrooms and tofu would go quite well with this sauce.
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