This stock first occurred one spring after market when I opened the refrigerator and found it full of whole and partial bits of green garlic and young garlic, leeks, scallions and spring onions as well as the tops I had saved, not to mention the halves of white and yellow onions. Everything was in great shape, but I needed room for the next batch of produce. So, I made stock. This recipe is sized down for the average kitchen.
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This is the basic polenta I serve at home in colder weather. When it is warm, I don’t bother with the mascarpone. If you do not use the mascarpone, you might want to up the Romano and/or Parmesan. The mascarpone or cream cheese adds silkiness to the polenta, and the corn stock adds depth and amplifies the natural corn flavor of polenta. You can use vegetable stock, or a meat stock also, or plain water works, too. Exercise caution while making polenta as it bubbles like lava and can burn! Long sleeves and a towel over the hand helps while you learn the ropes.
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Here, farro stands in for the rice in a little chewier, earthier rendition of risotto. Farrotto may actually predate risotto. This iteration, with the chard and plenty of garlic is quite down-to-earth, but you can use the same technique with mushrooms or lemon zest and juice to make it lighter flavored.
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This simple recipe gives tons of flavor from something that would normally be thrown out. This stock can be used to enhance dishes made with corn such as a succotash or corn sauce, or used instead of water when making polenta-it really makes the corn flavor sing here. It can also be used as a glaze by reducing it down to a syrup and then drizzling it on something like roast halibut or chicken.
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Here is a basic “recipe” I use a lot, especially in the summer; this is for “roasted” onions. It is more of a technique than a recipe, as it only calls for onions and flame, really. These onions are a key ingredient to my dark vegetable stock as they lend a depth of flavor, deep color, and the pectin helps to produce a density or viscosity to the stock that is usually derived from animal products. I use these onions in braises, soups, and salsas. Tossed with a little vinegar (red-wine or balsamic) then placed on toasts they make a nice quick appetizer. They elevate roasted peppers. These onions find their way into eggs, pastas, and sandwiches. Good for pizza, too. Grill a few and keep them in a sealed box in the refrigerator. They last 4-5 days.
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As it says, this stock is perfect for braising Chinese greens such as mei quin and other choys. It makes a great base for noodle soups with vegetables, and shiitake mushrooms pair with this quite well. This recipe makes 1 quart, which is more than most dishes call for, but this freezes well and is great for turning leftovers and a packet of quick ramen into something really good without using those little flavor packets full of who knows what. You can freeze this in ice-cube trays and pull out what you need as you go. Use a couple cubes as a base with water for quick soups.
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Frequently, when a chef hears “greens”, the next thing they think is “Get some bacon, ham, or other pork…” They just go together like peanut butter and jelly. This stock is for those occasions. It carries the pork flavor without taking up time to cook the bacon or ham first, and is a lighter flavor and there is little fat to deal with. This is a “basic” version infused with the sweet smoky flavor of ham. (See Ham Stock 2 for a Chinese/Asian boost to make it ideal for things like braising mei quin or using in noodle dishes and soups.) This recipe makes 1 quart, which is more than most dishes call for, but this freezes well.
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This is a basic for any Japanese kitchen. In fact, dashi plus miso and some shreds of vegetable equals “miso-shiru”, or miso soup. There are various styles of hana-katsuo (dried bonito flakes)-some are smoked or dried over wood fires, others are not. I especially like using the smokey ones for miso soup as the year turns cool. Look for these flakes in Japanese or oriental markets, some “health-food” stores, and better groceries. In Watsonville, look for them at Yamashita Market. You can find them online as well.
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This is the recipe for traditional miso soup. It includes the recipe for “dashi” (which is the starting point of many Japanese recipes), which is the base of miso soup. There are instant dashi packets out there, but they never taste as good as home made, and are frequently laden with additives such as MSG. Dashi may be frozen for “instant” soup, so do not be put off by the idea of having more than enough dashi if you only want a bowl or two.
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This stock is used in the same way you would use a dark chicken stock or other meat stock. It works well as a base for sauces and soups, and if you are feeling under the weather it is nice for when you don’t want to actually eat, but want some nutrition. It is really nice heated up with some fresh ginger in it. In meat stocks, the agent that thickens it is gelatin. In vegetables, the equivalent is pectin. By charring the onions and sautéing the rest of the vegetables, the pectin is catalyzed and so more readily available to the stock. Konbu* is a type of kelp. Seaweeds are used commercially as a thickener in many things, from toothpaste to ice cream, and is used that way here.
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