Dandelion, or “tooth of the lion” (from the French “dent de lion”) is sure not to be a glamour item on everyone’s table–it is too good for you, can be bitter, and can take a little work. Although it is said the name derives from its tooth-like shape, I sometimes wonder if it derived from the bite of bitterness these leaves can sometimes pack. Personally, I like that flavor, especially when tempered with the right things. Typically, these “things” would be fats, acid, and sweetness.
If the greens have thick stems that need trimming, do this with a long thin bladed knife that has a bit of flex, and is (of course) very sharp. Lay the leaf flat on the work surface and the blade parallel to the leaf and slide it from tip to base, shaving the stem thin. Doing this on a raised cutting board makes this easier as you can have the handle off the work surface. Depending on the bunch, you can also use your dominant pointer finger to make a ring around the stem at the second knuckle, and with the stem grasped with the other hand sticking up out of the finger, pull the stem straight up. If it is going to work with this bunch, the stem will strip out of the leaf for you. Success varies bunch to bunch.
When choosing dandelions greens, look for leaves that are bright and stems that are firm. Avoid any limp, wilted, or yellowing greens. They come in a few varieties-some, in fact, are chicories, while others are true “dandelions”, like in the yard. The chicories have thicker, tougher stems that come in red or green, the others have a soft stem, but they both can have an astringent flavor. The smaller and paler leaves tend to be softer, and less bracing. Larger leaves will stand up to vigorous cooking and will have big flavor.
I like to use dandelions in a variety of ways, from classic bistro style salads, and frittatas, to side dishes sautéed or braised, tossed with pasta or whole grains. I think dandelion calls out for smokiness, so I like bacon with these greens. For a meatless option, try diced smoked tofu. For sweetness, I like apple juice or Norman style hard-cider. Add a splash of cream, and finish the dish with a drizzle of cider vinegar. This dish is a balancing act of sweet, creamy, and slightly bitter. Poached eggs are a classic foil for salads of dandelions, and nut oils in dressings are marvelous, too. Big crunchy croutons and garlic fit well here, too. Remember a pound of dandelions cooks down to less than a cup of greens.
This article was originally printed in 2015.
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