Avocados (For Californians, This Isn’t the Pits…)

Here in California, we have so many things to be thankful for when it comes to fresh food. Avocados are certainly one of those things, and they are in prime time right now. Given that California produces 95% of the avocados in the USA this is not surprising. Of those, the Haas is the most widely grown, as it is worldwide. Overall, the Haas accounts for 80% of avocados grown. However, at one time in California there was something like 100 varieties grown, with the majority of them in the Santa Barbara/Ventura area and further south. Things like ease of growing and shipping account for the diminishing number varieties, but also some of the older varieties have just been eclipsed because their flavor is simply not as tasty as the Haas, Bacon, Fuerte, Gwen, and Reed varieties seen most commonly. When it comes to avocados, the flavors range from nutty to fruity, but the descriptor that almost always comes to mind is buttery. Oil content of avocados ranges from 3 to 30%, with the Haas at 19%. Sometimes an avocado will seem wet or watery, where some are buttery. The great thing about getting avos in California is that there will be different varieties from different areas so you can be assured of getting them at their peak. That is one of the keys to great flavor from avos. Different avos have different seasons, although the Haas produces year ‘round. Avocados mature on the tree, but will only ripen once picked. Some growers will “store” the avos on the trees for several months, allowing them to continue maturing longer, while some farmers will harvest the avos and store them at around 40°F until they are needed and then move them out. Commercial farms will cold store the avos hard, and then subject them to ethylene gas to start ripening them on the way to the store.

There is evidence of people eating avocados dating back to around 10,000 BC. To early humans the buttery quality of avos must have been a treat. Not only that, they are from the same area as where chilis hail, and the fat of the avo is a great foil for the heat of the chili. When thinking of ways to use avocado, remember that acids such as vinegar and tart fruits like citrus and pineapple bring out the richness, and salt brings out the buttery quality. Avos are a perfect foil for spicy chilis and earthy beets, as well. Their mild flavor couples well with seafood also, and they even feature in milkshakes-in Morocco they add orange flower and rose water and cardamom, and in Southeast Asia the shakes are made with sweetened condensed milk and chocolate syrup.

When selecting avocados, a few things are key. Look for examples that are not bruised or cut. It should feel heavy and the pit should not be rattling around inside. To check for ripeness, gently use the pad of the thumb or the palm to gently press on the avocado. It should have a little give to it when ripe. Checking the stem to see if it wiggles really doesn’t work as means to check for ripeness. It will only tell you that the stem area is ripe. However, it is a good idea to check that the stem stub is present as it prevents things from getting into the avo which might start it on the path to rot. Once cut and smashed, avos are subject to enzymatic browning, which can be retarded by applying lemon or lime juice. Unfortunately, leaving the pits in the guacamole or avo will not stop this happening. Should you have an avo that does have the browning, simply skim it off. It will not hurt the avo or you if this has happened. Patience and gentleness are good for avos. Handle them gently, and if they are hard, you just have to be patient. Place them in a paper sack and leave on the counter to ripen. To speed the process, put them near an apple or banana which outgas ethylene. Once ripe, you might let them go a day longer to be sure, then store in the refrigerator.

By the way, it is Haas as in glass, not as in Hoss from Bonanza. This information comes from Will Brokaw, a grower who sells in this area. His great uncle is the guy responsible for breeding the Haas, which is probably the most popular avocado in the US.