“…of the field, how they grow; they neither toil nor spin, yet I tell you even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these.” (Matt. 6:28-29)
What? Why am I quoting this piece of scripture in a food column you ask? Well, like leeks, onions, and garlic, asparagus is in the lily family, and for many this member of the family is THE harbinger of spring. For many of us that think with our bellies, asparagus is as beautiful as any lily, or more so. With its distinct flavor and fairly short season, asparagus is a divine treat and sure sign that winter is past.
Apparently the Romans enjoyed it immensely, too, and it is thought they were the first to cultivate it on a large scale. While most of Italy had wild asparagus growing, one area was renown for it’s spears that weighed in around a half-pound each! I’ve not seen wild asparagus, but the accounts I’ve read of it are that it is quite thin and weedy looking, with a distinctive flavor that is grassier, bitterer than what we eat. For those that like it, it is a flavor you just can’t get enough of.
Asparagus came to the New World in the mid 17th century, and the USA is now the largest grower in the world. It comes in three colors-green, white, and purple. The green is by far the most popular in the US, white seems to be preferred in Europe, and the purple is my favorite-I can’t really comment on it’s place in the world, but everyone I know who has tried it is quite smitten by this stately vegetable. I feel that it is sweeter, and less grassy tasting than either of the others, and the ones I have access to are all very thick and succulent.
As to the flavor of the white, I am still learning to like it. I have only cooked it a few times as I have seldom found bunches fresh enough I was willing to pay for. Lately, though, there is more of it to be found at more reasonable prices, so I’ll give it a shot again. I know it requires complete peeling from bud to stem end, and it needs to be cooked quite thoroughly, unlike the green that is cooked until just tender. I figure there must be something I am missing-considering there are entire festivals all over Europe dedicated to white asparagus. How could so many people love a vegetable and have it not taste good?
Asparagus as we eat it is the shoot of an Eurasian perennial-Asparagus officianalis-that grows up to be a four foot tall plant that looks fern-like and sports bright red berries. This fern-like growth happens after harvesting the shoots, and is needed for the health of the plant next year as it forms nutrients that are needed for the continued growth of the plant. I read that this form of the plant makes it’s way into floral bouquets and checked with a friend of mine who works in the flower industry. She explained that it is not used in large-scale commercial operations, but is indeed used in boutique floral arrangements. Asparagus takes 3 years before the plant takes off and begins to produce a commercially viable crop. It forms in clusters called “crowns” (which can be purchased at three years old and ready for harvesting), and the crowns are planted twelve inches deep in sandy soil so the shoots can push through and the knife can easily do it’s work. For white asparagus the growing requires keeping dirt mounded over the shoots to prevent them getting sunlight. This is sometimes called “blanching” and is the same thing that is done to endives. The crowns produce for 5-7 weeks, and when conditions are right the shoots can grow 10 inches in 24 hours! If growing white asparagus this represents a lot of work keeping things covered up, and there is an art to using asparagus knives to harvest the individual stalks.
For the first three years all spears are thin. After that, they are either thin or not. The thickness has nothing to do with plant maturity or the age of the spear. One farmer told me that spear diameter was a function of gender, but I have not found information to corroborate this. What I can tell you for sure is that I prefer the fat spears. The fatter the better for me. Yes, I like the thin ones too, and used to think the skinniest ones were special, but I found the thick spears to be succulent and sweeter too. I find them more versatile as well. They can be sautéed, roasted, grilled, or shaved raw into salads. Perfect for soups as well. The thin spears are easier to prep in that they only need to have the ends snapped off, and they are quick cooking. They can be added raw to dishes to be baked and will cook through, where the bigger spears might not cook all the way or might give off too much liquid.
Aside from being one of the few foods Miss Manners says is okay to eat with your fingers, asparagus is actually pretty good for you. It is high in vitamin C-up to 55% of the RDA per serving (standard serving is 3.5 ounces), 60% of Folacin (important in the first trimester of pregnancy), a good source of vitamins A, B6, Thiamine, and Potassium. 3 grams of protein and around 22 calories, and an excellent source of rutin.
Oh, that “smell”? (You know, when you pee?) It is a by-product of digestion and is caused by the breakdown of an amino acid (there is a debate as to which exact amino acid…). It is a genetic trait that is present in roughly 45% of people. You know who you are.
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